, Adventures

Encounters on the Edge

Each day, 48 hikers set off from Port Arthur on this popular four day walk on the Tasman peninsula. The Three Capes Track should be walked slow with friends or family: resting at the whimsical story seats, admiring the craft of the track makers, immersing your senses in the diversity of flora and dramatic cliff top views across the southern ocean.

Starting the walk with our group of five Sydney Sole Sisters were some thirty women followers of an online nutritionist. And three young blokes, who were no doubt wondering how they had lucked out on their worst nightmare: hiking with all these middle aged women.

The blokes responded to being out-numbered by spreading their smelly boots and socks over the deck of the architecturally designed hut. They perched themselves on bar stools with views across the ocean to Cape Raoul, lit up a smoke and opened a bottle. Meanwhile, the women bristled on their yoga mats.

Later, a passing rain shower lit the button grass plain with a rainbow.  While we were wondering what to do with the long evening, having already eaten our meagre rations of dehydrated cardboard in a few quick swallows, the blokes sauntered over to the BBQ to taunt us with their sizzling onions and steaks.

The next night, the boys stirred up a delicious smelling rissotto. By day three, when a large bottle of olive oil, garlic and mushrooms came out, and the online guru was extolling the virtues of her slimming tongue drops to her devotees gathered at her feet, I found the courage to introduce myself to the blokes.

Really, I just wanted some of their linguine to offset my dried possum-droppings, and I’d spotted a glistening portion of left over pasta goodness in their pot. Did their mothers raise them well to consider the needs of unexpected guests, or had they carried way too much food? Either way, they were happy to chat and share.

Day 1 Denmans Cove to Surveyors Hut

The Three Capes begins at Port Arthur, with a wander around the historic site and then a boat ride, all dressed in red rain-coats like something  out of Handmaids Tale. After spotting sea birds and seals beneath the dolerite cliffs, we slipped into Denman’s Cove where we ate our lunch. From here, its an easy 4km walk on formed track to Surveyors Hut.

The spacious huts are each staffed by a ranger. Our bunk rooms was divided into two groups of four affording some privacy, with benches and hooks to manage packs, boots, poles and the general mess of hiking life. The mattresses are comfortable and large enough for tall people who like to spread out.

The kitchens easily cope with the large number of hikers, and have heating, cooking facilities, dining tables, phone charging stations, reading material, and great views!

Day 2 to Munro Hut

We took our time covering the 11km from Surveyors to Munro Hut, with a high point near Arthurs Peak.

Spring comes late to Tasmania: the diversity, density and colours of the flowers was an overwhelming highlight today.  We walked through tall forest, dense coastal heath, cloud forest and more, with delightful names from early hikes such as Ellarwey (“where the hell are we”) Valley.

Munro Hut is perched on the edge, high over Munro Bight where whale spotting proved elusive. We were quick to join the short queue for the warm bucket showers. Refreshed we headed out to find some Tasmanian waratah and to take a sneak peak at the newly opened Lodge where 12 guided walkers pay for a more exclusive, comfortable experience.

Day 3 to the Blade, Cape Pillar and Retakunna Hut

Today is a long day at 19km to Cape Pillar and back, then on to Retakunna Hut.  Most of it is walked without a pack, and the boardwalks and formed track make for easy walking with frequent stops to enjoy the stories and views along the way.  Did you spot the snake head on the My Blood Runs Cold boardwalk?

Highlights of the day included climbing the Blade and the views of Tasman Island where we marvelled at the resilience of the lighthouse keepers and their families.  Imagine being 38 week pregnant and hiking with your five year old down a steep zig zag cliff path to hop into a boat in a tiny cove? Or getting from boat into a basket to ride a flying fox and haulage system? Much tougher people then!

We ate our lunch at the sheltered lookout beneath the sheoaks, looking down on the rocks of Seal Spa. Appropriately, I had sardines, which I devoured with gusto. Best hiking food ever.

Day 4 to Cape Hauy and Fortescue Bay

The last day covers  16km up and over Mt Fortescue and down through the rainforests on the Dark Side, then down and up the rocky path out to Cape Huay and back, and on to Fortescue Bay.

The walk ended with a chilly dip in the clear 13 degree waters of Fortescue Bay, before we caught the bus back to Port Arthur and on to Hobart.

Jess, the ranger at Retakunna, tells us that Tasmania spent $25 million and five years building the Three Capes Track – the attention to detail in creating a sustainable experience shows.  The experience, encounters on the edge, is worth every cent of the $495 fee – book now!

Logistics and Tips

Like the blokes, you too can have fun on the Three Capes Track. No need to carry a tent, sleeping mat, cooker or pots means so much more room in your pack for living it up!

We flew to Hobart, staying overnight at the YHA (small, noisy rooms although the staff went out of their way to be helpful). If your budget allows, book somewhere nice like the Henry Jones Art Hotel. We caught the Pennicotts bus from Hobart to the Port Arthur, and back again.

We are all experienced hikers and fit, but we noticed some other hikers struggling and missing out on Cape Pillar or Cape Hauy. This is such a pity – so make sure you are fit!

November turned on great walking weather for us, although it can be fickle. Photographs cannot convey the profusion of spring flowers.

We ordered some food from Three Capes  Gear and Gourmet, and highly recommend their “First Night Fabulous” offerings.  As a good section of this walk is without pack, hut facilities are excellent and the track is easy, be like the boys and pack some steaks, fresh Tassie produce and wine.

We combined the Three Capes Track with Maria Island, with a free day in Hobart to restock between each adventure. We hoped to visit MONA – but didn’t check their opening hours – they close on Tuesday.

Route Map

, Adventures

A group of adventurous Sole Sisters and partners journeyed to South Africa in March 2018 to hike the Northern Drakensberg Traverse. This traverse is considered to be one of the world’s top 10 walks, and we couldn’t wait to get up there. It would be a shame to go all the way from Australia to South Africa without seeing a few more sights though, so we added a week of fun and sightseeing before we tackled the mountains.

Cape Town

Our first port of call was Cape Town, where we enjoyed a lovely stay at the Lézard Bleu guest house in the suburb of Oranjezicht on the lower slopes of Table Mountain. It was the perfect launching pad for five days of exploring the Western Cape. Our lovely hosts spoiled us with a beautiful breakfast every morning, and we returned each evening for a swim in the pool and a relaxing drink on the deck.

Our first day in the Mother City was spent exploring the city, with stops at Greenmarket Square, the “Arch for Arch” honouring the much loved Archbishop Tutu, and the V&A Waterfront.

Highlights of the day included a caffeine hit at the extraordinary steam-punk coffee shop Truth (judged the world’s best coffee shop two years in a row) and a visit to the fabulous Zeitz MOCAA art museum in a converted grain silo.

It was a fun and relaxing day to recover from our journeys and find our feet in Africa, but looming over us as we gently strolled through the city was the awe-inspiring Table Mountain. A reminder that the next day would not be quite so easy!

Climbing Table Mountain

We started with an early breakfast and drive up to the lower cable car station, where we began our ascent of Table Mountain. Most people take the cable car to the top, and a few walk the direct route up, but we opted for a challenging route via India Venster.

Our guides, Ray Leveson and Frank Dwyer, helped us scramble up the rocks and kept us entertained with local knowledge. The day started with bright blue skies, but as we climbed the mist and clouds rose with us to cover the tabletop.  It was a tough climb, but we enjoyed waving to the lazy folks in the cable car!

We rewarded ourselves with a coffee stop at the peak, before heading off across the top of the mountain via Echo Valley. The swirling mist denied us the summit views, but instead we focussed our attention on the rich diversity of the fynbos: disas, proteas, ericas, restios and more. The Cape Floral Kingdom, of which Table Mountain is part, is a UNESCO World Heritage site

During lunch on a rock along Smuts’ track, the mist lifted and we had terrific views over the southern suburbs of Cape Town towards False Bay.

We descended through the afromontane forest via Nursery Ravine into Kirstenbosch Gardens. The beautiful blooming proteas and frisky sunbirds enchanted us and took our minds off our weary legs.

We were happy to see our driver in the carpark at the Gardens though – it was long day out on the mountain, but a truly stunning walk and a good warm-up for the adventures ahead.

Touring the winelands and Cape Point

After our hard work climbing the mountain, we treated ourselves with a day tour of the vineyards inland from Cape Town with lively guide Annie Delport.

We started with a chocolate tasting and coffee at Spice Route, then moved on to Fairview and Backsberg for cheese, wine and brandy tastings, and eventually a gourmet lunch (more wine naturally) at Glen Carlou.

Even that wasn’t enough, so we stopped for an ice cream and a stroll round the lovely old university town of Stellenbosch. It wasn’t all gluttony though, as the hunt was on for the perfect ostrich skin bag. Fortunately, Stellenbosch is full of shops!

The Cape of Good Hope beckoned and we spent a day driving the Cape Peninsula circuit, with stops to see the penguins at Boulders Beach, the stunning view from Cape Point, and the lookouts on Chapman’s Peak Drive. It was a beautiful sunny day, but the wind was whipping the spray up from the Atlantic Ocean, and we were happy to retreat back into the city.

Our last day in Cape Town started with a walk through the peaceful Kirstenbosch Gardens, then an afternoon free for everyone to relax or follow their own interests, followed by a taste safari and lively African music and dance at Gold.

Klein Karoo and Garden Route

We thoroughly enjoyed the Western Cape, but it was time to move on to explore other parts of South Africa. We headed northeast out of Cape Town and through the Klein (Little) Karoo, which despite being a semidesert region was beautiful and full of surprises.

We stumbled upon Giovanni’s Italian Country Kitchen in Calitzdorp and learned about the Italian prisoners of war who settled in the area after WWII while we enjoyed excellent pizza and homemade amaretto.

After marvelling at the huge flocks of ostriches in the paddocks by the highway, we decided to visit one of the ostrich farms and have a closer look at not only the birds but the ostrich skin bags!

The dramatic change of vegetation and the view of the Indian Ocean from the high pass down into the town of George was stunning, and we happily headed into the town of Wilderness to stop for the night at the Moontide Guesthouse.

The next day we continued east along the coast of the Eastern Cape on the Garden Route, which rivals the Great Ocean Road for spectacular scenery.

We stopped at a few important landmarks en route, including the 1855 Holy Trinity Anglican Church in Belvidere, where two of our Sole Mates were married nearly 30 years ago.

Our final stop was Jeffreys Bay, where Mick Fanning famously punched a shark. Sadly, there were no sharks or surfers in sight, so we headed on into Port Elizabeth, where we were welcomed with open arms by our Sole Mates’ families. They treated us to a delicious South African braai and very comfortable homestays for the night.

The challenge of the Drakensberg awaits in part 2!

Fabulous photos by Jo

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Map

India Venster is a difficult and dangerous route up Table Mountain. Weather conditions on Table Mountain can change quickly. Do not attempt this route without an experienced guide. This track map is approximate and should not be relied on.

 

 

, Adventures

After a touristy week in the Cape, including a warm-up climb of Table Mountain, our group of adventurous Sole Sisters flew to Durban. Our journey to hike the mighty Drakensberg, or uKhahlamba (barrier of spears) as the Zulu call it, had begun.

The Cavern

From King Shaka Airport in Durban, we headed northwest through the green hills of KwaZulu-Natal to the Drakensberg Mountains and The Cavern, a lovely family resort hotel at the base of the Royal Natal National Park.

We arrived in time for lunch on the deck and a swim in the freshwater pool. We couldn’t get too comfortable though, as we were leaving the next morning for the highlight of our trip, the high traverse from the Sentinel to Cathedral Peak over six days.

With a long trek ahead of us, and heavy weather forecast, it was time to get serious. What to carry in the backpack? What to leave behind at the resort? Several hours of sorting and backpack-weighing later, we were ready to go but feeling jittery.

Our guide, Paul Roth, met us for pre-dinner drinks, and we quickly realised that we’d be in safe hands. Even the photo he showed us of a helicopter crash he’d just survived while part of a mountain rescue operation didn’t deter us!

Day 1: The Sentinel and the Amphitheatre

Getting to the start of our walk the next morning was an adventure in itself. We picked up our four Zulu porters and drove for several hours around the edge of the national park and into the Free State.

The steep, rugged road to the Sentinel car park was a challenge for our packed minibus, despite our excellent driver’s best efforts. To lighten the load, we all got out and walked up many sections of it – a good warm-up but a little daunting as we started to realise just how high we were going and what was ahead of us.

Our plan was to ascend to the top of the Amphitheatre that day via the direct route up 35 metres of chain ladders, but sadly, the ladders were closed for maintenance just minutes before we arrived.

Our only option was the steep and narrow Gully, a more physical route to the top of Beacon Buttress. Scrambling up the rocks with our full packs was a challenge, but we still managed to pick up the pace when threatening thunderclouds started moving in.

We made it to the top and huddled together in a rock shelter until the storm passed, then set up our tents near the second highest waterfall in the world. The Tugela Falls plunge an astonishing 948 metres into the valley far below.

We had a lovely evening on the edge of the escarpment, looking down on creation, but we were happy to escape the cold wind in our tents as soon as night fell.

Day 2: To Mbundini Abbey

On day two, we walked out of South Africa and into Lesotho along the Kubedu River valley. We panted our way up and down the hills in the 3000m-high air, but fortunately no one felt any other symptoms of altitude sickness.

After leaving the Amphitheatre, we didn’t see any other walkers, but we passed many Basotho herdsmen with their flocks of sheep and goats. Most of them waved from a distance but a few walked down to meet us. It was a lovely day, with the sun shining and easy walking along the escarpment.

Our leisurely break for lunch included a hot cup of tea and entertainment by a lammergeier (bearded vulture) dropping bones from a great height onto the rocks below to smash open for the marrow for its own lunch.

We camped at Mbundini Abbey, a beautiful spot with sweeping views past Madonna and her Worshippers to the dramatic peaks and vertiginous slopes to the valley below.

Day 3: Rain, rain, rain

During the night, the weather changed and we woke to find the previously dry ground beneath our tents had become a swamp. The pouring rain didn’t let up all day as we trudged on through the mist toward the source of the Orange River. Walking in puddles, our socks and boots were wet, all clothing layers were damp, the rain dripped from our caps onto our faces, the mist closed in and the wind chilled us to the bone. If we stopped, we froze, so on we trudged.

We hurriedly set up camp in the mid-afternoon, stripped off and climbed into our sleeping bags in our tents to reheat our bodies. And there we stayed, eating whatever cold snack food we had, from 3pm until 7am the next day. It was a very long and frustrating night listening to the rain continuing to pour outside, while our tents turned into waterbeds.

Day 4: Descending Rockeries to “five star” Cave

When the sun rose, we peaked through the tent zips to see the clouds lifting briefly over the mountains. We decided that the best option was to cut our trek short and drop off the escarpment in the hopes of finding somewhere drier and warmer to camp, rather than staying high risking hypothermia walking on to Cathedral Peak.

While this was the safest option, it wasn’t the easiest one, however! We still had two days of walking and the Rockeries to descend, not to mention countless roaring streams to ford.

After a quick breakfast, we packed up our wet gear and set off into the rain and mist. The first river wade of the day was the Sengu (Orange), that rises here and flows west across South Africa to the Atlantic ocean. The descent of Rockeries was magnificent, surrounded by high waterfalls and saturated but positively glowing green hillsides.

Our plan was to spend the night in one of the many caves in the area. Fortunately, our Zulu porters knew the path to the cave and went on ahead. When we reached it, they had set up house for us, with a fire blazing and a soft bed of grass prepared in the corner kraal (usually an enclosure for sheep or cattle, but in this case, for women!). We thoroughly enjoyed our warm and dry evening.

Day 5: Mweni Valley

In the morning, the inside of the cave resembled a laundry, with all of our gear hanging up to dry, but the weather had cleared. We ate our breakfast squatting on the hillside like baboons, looking out at the stunning panorama. Though we were sad to leave our “five star” cave, we continued down into the valley.

It was mostly easy walking but we had one last hurdle to face – crossing the rain-swollen Thonyelana River. With a bit of teamwork, we managed to get everyone over.

We eventually reached a dirt road that wound its way through Zulu villages to the Mnweni Cultural & Hiking Centre. We had lots of snacks and sweets left over, and the children that we passed were only too happy to help us lighten our loads.

Return to The Cavern

It was a long, slow minibus ride back to The Cavern from the cultural centre, but the lovely staff had saved a late lunch for us, which we wolfed down with gusto. Though we’d ended our walk a day early, we weren’t too upset. We had a relaxing extra day at The Cavern to recover and clean ourselves up before we headed home to Sydney.

South Africa is stunningly beautiful, its people are warm and welcoming, and we’d love to go back for more walking in the Drakensberg area. But maybe next time we’ll ditch the tents and just walk cave to cave!

The Drakensberg are little known in Australia, although recent coverage in Wild, Great Walks and SMH Traveller have raised the profile of this world class hiking destination.

Many thanks to Angus Maclaren from Walks in Africa for putting together a wonderful itinerary for us, great guides and accommodation.  A fantastic holiday.

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Map

If you are not a very experienced hiker, or have no local knowledge, take a guide when hiking in the Drakensberg. This track map is very approximate and should not be used for navigation.

 

, Adventures

It was 10 brave souls who set out on a somewhat chilly Autumn morning in late April to brave the ‘Red Track’ in Bungonia National Park. Trying not to be disheartened by the numerous warnings on the entry sign, we scrambled and slid down the steep goat track that took us down into Slot Canyon, grateful of our poles for support.

Once in the canyon, we enjoyed a short morning walk along the valley floor, taking in the spectacular view of the canyon walls rising up either side before arriving at the ‘boulder’ section – an area of the canyon which required some new skills for the group.

‘Bouldering’ is defined by Wikipedia as “a form of rock climbing that is performed on small rock formations or artificial rock walls, known as boulders, without the use of ropes or harnesses”.

For our party, it was a game of strategy and teamwork as we picked our way over, under and around the giant boulders, jumping between the rocks, sliding down rock faces and squeezing through gaps.

Many found courage and skills they did not know they had but, with a little help from each other, we all emerged safely through the boulders.

Rather than continue up the Red Track, we followed the mostly dry creek bed down to the Shoalhaven River for lunch, ignoring the light drizzle of rain, before hiking up the steep ridge of the White Track and along the top to arrive back at the carpark.

The walk was rated difficult and had proved to be somewhat challenging, but all rose to the challenge and emerged stronger for the experience.

Camping the night at the extremely comfortable Bungonia NP campsite, we enjoyed hot showers and warm meals while retelling stories of our day’s adventure over a glass or red (or two). 

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Map

, Adventures

A group of seven of us ventured to New Zealand for what seems to have become an annual destination to complete one of their Great Walks. After walking the Heaphy Track last year, this time the Routeburn Track was selected. This track is generally a 2 night/3 day tramp and is located in the Fiordland and Mt Aspiring regions, not far from Queenstown. The Routeburn Track is possibly the next most popular walk in New Zealand (after the Milford Track) and it’s stunning scenery deserves such a reputation. It covers 36km of scenic alpine vistas, lush moss and lichen filled forests, spectacular and abundant waterfalls, lakes (in that wonderful azure glacial blue), gorges and mountain views.

Day 1 : The Divide to Lake MacKenzie Hut

Our transport picks us up at 7.15am from Te Anau and drops us off at The Divide just over an hour later. It is a grey drizzly morning so, after taking a few photos to commemorate the start of our walk, we head off wearing raincoats and pack covers. One of our group can’t find her pack cover so we rig up an alternative from a plastic poncho, using a variety of knots combined with delicate placement. I wonder how effective it will be and how long it will last. Although it is reasonably cool, layers start to come off quickly as it is nearly all uphill on Day 1.

From The Divide, there is a gradual climb for about an hour at a steady pace on a well-formed track. The beech forest drips with the light mist of rain and it is clear why everything is so lush and green. The forest is covered in ferns, many varieties of moss – literally dripping from the trees – and some interesting looking lichens. The mist offers a surreal glimpse into the landscape and we are not concerned about distant mountain views as we wonder at this wet green outlook that would feel quite at home on a movie set like the Lord of the Rings or perhaps within a fairy story. We start to pass the first of many streams and waterfalls and even have our first taste of the local water gushing from the rocks.

We pass the path to Key Summit Track and elect not to make this one hour side trip as we have been advised that it is not worth the climb when there is no view. Shortly after this we start to head down and arrive at the Lake Howden Hut for a break. This small hut overlooks a pretty lake and has the bonus of being under cover and with toilet facilities.

After morning tea, we head off past the lake and climb gradually through more ancient beech forests. There are more waterfalls to enjoy – in particular the spectacular Earland Falls which are 174m high. The mist from the falls is so profuse and we have to put on raincoats to simply walk past it. At one stage the Forest appears to end and we enter a clearing known as ‘The Orchard’. This is an open grassy area with shorter, different trees that do look a bit like fruit trees. We later learn that The Orchard was formed following a huge landslide many years ago and the trees are actually young trees which will eventually grow to the height of the other forest trees. Whilst we want to stop here for lunch, a drizzle has set in and we elect to move into the forest canopy for some protection from the wet for a quick lunch on the side of the track.

Towards the end of our first day, the surface of the track becomes rockier and the path seems to narrow. The rocks are at times slippery and one of our group has a scary fall off the side of the path and she descends down the mountain – backpack and all. She is fortunately stopped by vegetation and pulled up by the rest of us. The incident alerts and reminds us to watch our feet and keep safe. Although we are only walking about 14km today, it is a slower journey time than any of us expect due to the terrain.

As we descend to our accommodation at Lake Mackenzie, the track starts to get tough on aging knees so we are relieved to see buildings when they come into view. The first one however is the rather lavish building for the guided walkers which we have to walk past before reaching our own accommodation. We are cheered however that the Lake Mackenzie DOC hut has a much better view and location. This hut is slightly older than some we have used in New Zealand and has 50 bunks over two buildings – most of the beds are on a sleeping platform which takes a little getting used to especially when the person sleeping next to you is someone unfamiliar to you.

After setting up, most of us visit and swim in the stunning azure blue Lake Mackenzie (who needs a hot shower anyway?) which is dotted with rather spectacular rocks. The dip is highly refreshing and recommended despite the rather cold water temperature.

That evening the resident hut warden treats us to a chat that bears some resemblance to a comedy show peppered with lots of interesting information (or maybe it was the other way round). His talks are somewhat legendary in these parts and well worth catching (unlike the fish in the lake). We also learn about the stoat boxes which we have seen on the track and this ranger has been instrumental in introducing in order to return native birdlife to the area.

That night, there is quite a bit of faffing about in the backpacks. This becomes a key word in our group as people attempt to find things in their backpacks.

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Day 2: Lake Mackenzie Hut to Routeburn Falls Hut

The rain has disappeared for our second day and we set off to hike over Harris Saddle to reach the highest point of the track. From Lake Mackenzie, we climb steadily, zigzagging as we traverse across the steep terrain.  Soon we are above the tree line and look back towards Lake Mackenzie – a seriously spectacular view. Having left the forest, we enter a world of rocks, grasses and alpine plants including edelweiss. Needless to say, some of us sing from the Sound of Music.

The path is tricky in places and we decide that we would much rather climb this terrain than descend it.

We pass the memorials to three trampers who have died on this track – the most recent death in 2016. There is also a pickaxe to remind us how the track was made – it is clear that no machinery has made this path.

We stop for a break at a great vantage point overlooking the Hollyford valley with views of the mountain range. At this time of the year, there is little snow on the peaks. It’s a beautiful walk from here as we spot sub-alpine plants and our first kea bird. The path traverses across the range and, whilst it feels exposed, the weather is kind to us. The combination of the slope, tussock grasses and narrow windy path with mountain views make this the most scenic day. When we reach the highest point on the track at Harris Saddle, we stop for lunch. Be prepared everyone else is having lunch here at the same time so it does seem a little crowded. There is another side track from here to climb Conical Hill which we decide not to walk.

After lunch we descend past Lake Harris. We walk through tussock grasses interspersed with streams, waterfalls and a wetland area. There are even giant rocks that have fallen from the mountain above and a rock shelter to walk through. The river bubbles beside us and meanders merrily to one side of the track. The path seems to have become considerably easier to walk – in sections there are even steps! As we reach our accommodation, the stunning Routeburn Valley comes into view.

Our hut for tonight is the Routeburn Falls Hut which is a newer hut with 48 bunks with greater privacy. The platform running at the front of this building overlooks the valley below with elevated views over the tree canopy. Not for the first time, we think the DOC hut has a better location compare to the guided walkers’ hut.

As the Falls are close by, we explore and find a path that leads to the water’s edge. All of us dip in the icy cold water but we seem to be in full view of the track above! Whilst the walkers are a long distance away, we imagine they are finding the sight of so many naked women below more interesting than the valley view or mountains above. Indeed one man remains there for the entire time we are bathing. We agree that we don’t need a hot shower as this outdoor experience is much more memorable.

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Day 3: Routeburn Falls Hut to Routeburn Shelter

On our final day, we wake to the sound of rain. It’s not too hard but definitely worth wearing raincoats and pack covers. The makeshift poncho cover from our first day is however no match so there is rummaging around in bags to find extra gear.

As this part of the track is used by day walkers, our remaining walk is on a well-formed track. Finally it is wide enough for two of us to walk side-by-side. We are back in the beech forest almost immediately we leave the hut. We sidetrack to Routeburn Flats Hut for a short break from the rain. The view here of the valley with its grassy meadows and meandering river is lovely. We warm to this smaller hut which would be a great base to explore from.

Walking past the flats, we cross our first swing bridge and then shadow the crystal clear river as it roars through a magnificent gorge. The river plunges under and over rocks and there is an opportunity to walk down to its edge. If there weren’t so many other people here we might have gone for a swim! From here it is a gentle walk through the beech forest with a side trip through a nature reserve. We spot a few small native birds which skip on the forest floor next to us. They are hoping our feet will have disturbed insects for their next meal.

At the Routeburn Shelter we dry off, have lunch, make tea/miso soup and wait for our transport to take us back to Queenstown. There is much celebration as this has been the first multi-day hike for a number of our group. We hope to see everyone back for more another time.

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Map

Logistics In A Nutshell

Accommodation:

Huts are pre-booked through the Department of Conservation. The Great Walk season is from end October to end April when huts are serviced and have cooking facilities. Outside of these dates, facilities are limited including the removal of many bridges. Huts are basic but comfortable and have stunning views. The Lake Mackenzie hut is due to close shortly and will be rebuilt for next season. Huts in 2017/18 season cost NZ$65 per night. We recommend booking early – we booked ours 10 months ahead as did many of the walkers on the same track.

Accommodation:

Huts are pre-booked through the Department of Conservation. The Great Walk season is from end October to end April when huts are serviced and have cooking facilities. Outside of these dates, facilities are limited including the removal of many bridges. Huts are basic but comfortable and have stunning views. The Lake Mackenzie hut is due to close shortly and will be rebuilt for next season. Huts in 2017/18 season cost NZ$65 per night. We recommend booking early – we booked ours 10 months ahead as did many of the walkers on the same track.

Buddy System:

The buddy system, of putting people together (in 2s or 3s) for shopping, cooking, sleeping, walking/looking out for one another, worked well especially cooking together. We would however advance on this to suggest buddies carry only one first aid kit (for example) to lighten loads further.

Duration:

We chose to walk the track in 3 days but it would be possible to shorten it by one day. We felt that 3 days/2 nights was optimal as the track in places is narrow, rocky and slippery so covering it at speed would be difficult.

Direction:

The walk can be covered in either direction although we start at The Divide and finish at the Routeburn Shelter (west to east). The views from either direction are similar but the walk is easier this way. As the guided walkers always walk west to east, the track guides for unguided walkers are printed to encourage you to walk east to west. We now realise why it is printed this way as there are, quite simply, an enormous number of guided walkers. This makes the track seem crowded in places. Their sheer number detracts from the remoteness of the location. We would therefore recommend unguided walkers travel east to west.

Weather:

You can expect wet weather is in this region as around two-thirds of the days historically experience rain. This is evident in the beautiful mossy and lichen forests and the plentiful water sources. We chose to walk at beginning of March when historical rain had been low. Unfortunately we were not blessed with blue skies although the track had been dry and clear for many weeks prior. The rain was not heavy but it was humid and damp. In hindsight, we would walk earlier in the season when the mountains had more snow (it is alpine after all). This would would have necessitated extra layers, gloves etc to be prepared for more inclement weather.

Transport:

We used Tracknet to transport us to and from Queenstown to the walk (including stopping in Te Anau for one night so that we were closer to the start of the walk). They partner with Info & Track to offer a loop which travels from Queenstown – Te Anau – The Divide and then Routeburn Shelter – Queenstown. The cost for the loop when we went was NZ$123.

Gear:

Expect to carry 10-11kg on this walk including water and food. As streams are plentiful, only 1L of water is generally required. The gear list published by DOC and on this website was our main guide. To this I add the following tips:

1. Don’t forget your earplugs – snorers can be very noisy!
2. A cloth handkerchief (rather than tissue packets) will last all trip and doesn’t need to be replaced or added to your rubbish.
3. A cut up piece of an old yoga mat makes a good seat if it is rocky or wet (also very light and doesn’t cost anything).
4. If you are using a water bladder make sure you also carry a water bottle in case it fails. Also think about a spare mouthpiece. 
5. You can put a few rounds of duct tape around your water bottle which might be useful for fixing things on the track – saves having to carry too much extra weight. 
6. If you have weak knees or other stressed body parts, think about carrying physio strapping tape and/or braces. Strapping tape can also be put around your water bottle. 
7. A spare pair of shoelaces is a good idea to include.
8. There are miniature bottles/containers for sale in most $2 shops (including Daiso) which are useful for decanting your face creams etc. You can use a small spray bottle with water to cool yourself down.
9. A battery pack to charge your mobile phone is useful if you are using it to take photos etc. Best to make sure it is protected though. 
10. You can buy “Goodbye Sandfly” in New Zealand which is a natural repellent and bite soother. It is considerably safer (and lighter) than Bushmans.
11. Take a small tube of SuperGlue – you never know if old boots will fall to pieces!
12. A short pair of gaiters is useful to prevent rain going down the top of your boots.
13. A Buff is great for keeping wind, cold and sun out.
14. A light-weight sarong is good for modesty dashes to the communal toilets at night.
15. Clean your boots before you leave as they will need to be inspected at customs. Most people opt to wear them on the flight which saves on luggage space and makes them easier to access.
16. Check your passport is in date! And don’t leave it behind on the photocopier….
17. Pack a few small Ziploc bags to put food into when you buy it in NZ.

, Adventures

Can I swim one more ocean pool pleeease?  Our Sydney Summer Ocean pool jaunt had been such fun, we had to head south and do the Illawarra rock pools.  The first challenge was figuring out how to cover the distance between 10 pools in a day, a challenge solved by hiring bicycles from South Coast Bike Hire.  Then nature delivered another challenge: Cyclone Gita.

#32 Coalcliff rock pool

An early start got us to the most northern of the Illawarra rockpools, secluded in a corner of the peaceful Coalcliff beach, shortly after sunrise.  Some young men were flying drones while we had a lazy paddle.  No need to race, there are plenty more pools to come.

We drove by car from Coalcliff to Wombarra, and then on to Coledale and Austinmer, before picking up the bikes.  This section was all on the Lawrence Hargreaves Drive, and we didn’t want to compete on bicycles with traffic.  After Austinmer, once we had picked up our rented bikes, it was all cycleway, and mostly flat.

#33 Wombarra rock pool

Next up was Wombarra (down Reef Ave) with the tide beginning to rush in.

Things we’ve learnt about swimming rock pools:

• Free is good!
• Each pool is different and the access, surface, tides and swell all add an exciting element of randomness.
• The locals doing their morning laps, the nipper families, and the visitors like us are all friendly and happy to share the pool and have a chat

#34 Coaldale rock pool

Coledale took a bit of finding, hidden away on a rockshelf behind a headland.  With the tide high, we had a nice wade across the rocks to reach the pool.  The water was racing through the narrow access at the shallow end, creating a fun drag effect.  A great spot to laze on your back and enjoy the escarpment views.  Loved this pool.

#35 Austinmer Ocean Pools

Austinmer was pumping!  It was 9am by now, and there was quite a crowd gathering, after the quiet seclusion of our first three pools. There are two ocean pools side by side. The larger pool was a relatively peaceful swim, while the long, deep narrow pool had an awesome Gita-powered swell rushing through and over the wall.  A great lap workout, and way more fun than a wave machine in a theme park!

We could have played here for much longer, but we had a date with Shane, the bicycle man, at a car park near the station, so off we went.  Shane couldn’t have been more helpful.  He was ready waiting for us, with a collection of bikes in excellent condition.  He checked the bikes were all set up at the right height, gave us some directions, and told us to lock the bikes and text him the location when we were done with our one-way hire.  Off we went on our 20km cycle with frequent swim-stops!

#36 Bulli rock pool and #37 Woonona rock pool

We zoomed past Thirroul pool (chlorine, who needs that?) heading for Bulli Beach Cafe (coffee, yes we need that!) and Bulli Rockpool.  It was nipper time by now, and the families and kiddies in their pink tops were everywhere.  Not much reason to hang around here, so after our lap, with a pause for a wave to splash over us at the ocean end, we cycled off to Woonona on the next headland.

Woonona is almost like a real pool, complete with faded lane markings and starter blocks. It was super busy with nippers and families, so we did our lap and moved on.

#38 Bellambi rock pool and #39 Towradgi rock pool

Bellambi was too much fun!  The swell and water was rushing over the pool wall, crashing through the pool and reflecting waves back onto itself, splashing out onto the concrete and steps.  With memories of the waves in Mahon’s pool, we were careful to take a middle line for our lap across this pool.

We cycled in our cosies all day, pulling on wet shorts and throwing on a wet shirt after each swim.  A nice ride through the park and across the creek and we were at Towradgi.  Once again, the waves were crashing in broadsides.,  Some girls were hanging on the rails, enjoying the force of the water, while others were playing with blow up swans.

#40 Ladies Baths and Nun’s Pool

We cycled on into Wollongong itself, past the harbour and up onto Flagstaff Hill, with a great view of the beaches north, where we’d been playing all morning.  From the hill we could look down on Nun’s Pool.  Quite different to the Nun’s Pool at Cronulla!  Also known as Chain Baths, this is the oldest and most dramatic of Wollongong’s ocean baths.

The water was wild!  Some teenagers were standing on a rock contemplating their options.

From Flagstaff Hill we could see another little pool. A dog was paddling in the shallower section, and two lovers were enjoying the deeper pool.  This pool isn’t named on my map, so we called it Lovers and Dog Pool.  However, later we found out it was called Ladies Baths, and like Nun’s Pool, is also very old.  The day had warmed up nicely by now, and we had a lovely wallow cooling off, surrounded by hippo shaped rocks and surfers enjoying the nearby break.  Pool bliss.

#41 Gentlemen’s Baths and Continental Pool

Back to Wollongong, we had some lunch.  Swimming makes you hungry.

The Gentlemen’s Baths were underwater with the high tide.  We swam a quick lap, showered and changed at Continental Pool.  Locked our bikes to a pole for collection by Shane, and caught an Uber back to our cars for the trip home.  A great day out.

What’s next?

Perhaps Shellharbour (Beverley Whitfield), two pools at Kiama, and two pools at Gerringong (Werri Beach and Boat Harbour) down south?  Or should we adventure north, there is Pearl Beach, Killcare (a ring of stones), Macmasters, Copacabana, Avoca, Terrigal, The Entrance, Norah Head, and three at Newcastle (Mereweather, Bogey Hole and Ocean Baths).  Next summer.

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Leg 7 in a nutshell

Transport: Drive between the first three or four pools, then park at Thirroul Station and cycle the remainder from Thirroul to Flagstaff Hill. Public transport back to your cars.  Bicycle hire from very helpful Shane at Southcoastbikehire.
Start: Coalcliff
Finish: Flagstaff Hill Park
Distance: approx 15km driving Coalcliff to Thirroul, and approx 20km cycling to Flagstaff Hill
No of pools: 9 or 10 depending on how you count!

Map

 

 

 

 

 

, Adventures

For the final leg of our summer ocean pool jaunt we meet at Wanda Beach SLSC. We have two ex-shire gals in the group who have decided a visit to Cronulla isn’t complete without walking the infamous Wanda Beach. It’s not yet 7am and the carpark is almost full. It seems we have timed our walk with a surf carnival.

It’s a beautiful sunny morning, light breeze, low tide, perfect conditions for 1km of beach walking to our first rock pool. We have a clear view to the north of Sydney’s longest continuous beach – 5km from Cronulla to Boat Harbour. There is something missing. Where are the huge sand hills of the 1960s – so imprinted in my childhood memory – a playground for kids with cardboard, a training ground for aspiring athletes, as well as the location for many a film shoot such as 40,000 Horsemen.

Sadly, continuous sand mining to meet the construction needs of a growing city along with nearby housing developments have had a huge impact on this once pristine environment. These gigantic dunes, so close to Kurnell, where Captain Cook first set foot on Australian soil, were thought to date back to Mesolithic times. Despite the historical and physical significance of the area, Sutherland Shire Council gave the go ahead in the 1930s to sand mining and backed up a decade later allowing an oil refinery nearby. Enough history.

#27 North and South Cronulla rock pools

We turn right and head south, dodging nippers, life-savers and surf skis, pass Eleoura and North Cronulla SLSCs and onto a pathway to reach our first rock pools. There are two pools side by side – imaginatively named “North” and “South” Cronulla Rock Pool.

“North” is the smaller one and with a low tide we could wade to the end and back – perfect for young ones and non-swimmers. “South” is a much larger and deeper pool where we could stretch out and swim a few laps with the locals. Access is very slippery and we were grateful for the ramps and railings.

#28 Nuns Pool

We continue on past South Cronulla SLSC and onto The Esplanade – a very popular walkway with an interesting mix of old and new houses ranging from the 1920s beach shack, red brick blocks of units to the modern mega mansions. We pass a building that was once a convent and spy a track leading down an embankment that takes us to a gorgeous natural rock pool, referred to by the locals as The Nuns’ Pool.

#29 Shelly Beach and #30 Oak Park rock pools

Next we come to Shelly Beach Pool and soon after Oak Park Pool  (Glaisher Point).

There are many similarities to these two gems. Both pools front a grassy park area complete with pine trees and palms, the perfect place for a picnic. And both have change rooms that are beautiful examples of Art Deco style pavilions, apparently built in the 1930s between the war years as part of the unemployment relief schemes which enabled new and less affluent suburbs to acquire previously unaffordable ocean pools.

It is worth noting Shelly Beach has a wheelchair ramp from the path to the pool. These pools have a very friendly and relaxed vibe. Of course, Oak Park is also famous as the pool where Shark Wrangler Mel Hatheier casually returned a shark from pool to ocean. No sharks today.

#31 Gunamatta Bay Baths

The walkway now continues on to Bass and Flinders Point overlooking the Port Hacking River – stunning views of ocean, river and The Royal NP where a recent bush fire is still smouldering. Soon we come to Darook Park, a lovely little beach on the shores of Gunamatta Bay. The incoming tide means we can’t continue along the shoreline as this is only possible at a low tide. We detour slightly onto Nicholson Pde to arrive a few minutes later at the Gunamatta Baths. Not an ocean rock pool but a significant pool none the less.

The Gunamatta Baths complex is so huge there is a 50m pool tucked into one corner. The vast netted area provided a safe enclosure where the council ran free learn to swim lessons during the 50s and 60s – a time when learning to swim was an essential, non-negotiable part of childhood.

The Cronulla Swimming Club, started in the 1920s is still going today and was in progress at the time of our visit. The climb down the steep ladder to the pontoon style starting blocks looked just as scary as back in my childhood days. I so wanted to ask for a lane and to swim just one length of this pool.

Instead we swam out to the net and I recalled a story from my learn to swim days – where an older sister told me (as I reached the net and was in need of a rest) the reason they are called shark nets is because the sharks are waiting for you so don’t touch the nets. And don’t touch the bottom or a sting ray will get you. Learning to swim in the 60s!

Next was a well-earned coffee and muffin at Primal Joes Café before the walk back along the beach to our cars at Wanda Beach.

Palm Beach to Cronulla, and beyond?

We have so enjoyed our Summer Ocean Pool Challenge from Palm Beach to Cronulla. Evocative of a bygone era where taking the train or tram to the seaside was a leisurely pursuit enjoyed by many. These simple rock pools, open to the elements, provided safe and affordable facilities for swimming and relaxing all year round.

Do we have to stop?  Illawarra anyone?

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Leg 6 in a nutshell

Transport: park Wanda Beach SLSC
Start of walk: Wanda Beach
Finish: Wanda Beach
Distance: 8km
No of pools: 5

Thank you, Mary for leading the group on this leg to your childhood pools!

Map

, Adventures

At 5am, in bucketing rain, I wonder how many of our walkers today will turn up to the fifth leg of the Summer Ocean Pool Challenge. By 6am, the rain seems to have eased and the forecast is for clear skies after 7am. It is however cold, but this is a welcome relief from the scorching temperatures of Bondi to Coogee last weekend. I pack a rain jacket and head out the door.

Everyone turns up on time at our parking near Randwick Golf Club, and we “Uber” to the start at South Coogee. I am grateful for the rain jacket – it is not just cold but seriously windy (a southerly no less) and I find that I need the extra layer for wind protection. Everyone else dons their rain jackets too.

#22 Wylies Baths

Our first pool today is Wylies Baths – fabulous historic baths in Coogee. The building is reminiscent of a bygone era with a magnificent view through the doorway to the distant ocean and a breathtaking platform over the pool below. We remind ourselves again that this is the Eastern Suburbs as we pay $5 entry fee to swim. We wander down the steps, greeted by the resident feline, the waves are crashing over the baths and it looks more than little bit interesting. We have timed our visit to coincide with high tide which is not deliberate but fortunately Wylies Baths has a lifeguard on duty – a precaution we feel is worth it given the rogue waves on display.

A local has already been for his swim and points out the best way into the baths to avoid the swell and rocks. Most of us (but not all) bravely venture forth into water that would look at home in a washing machine. Fortunately, it is pleasantly warm in the water (much warmer than the air temperature) although the swell makes it a rather laborious 2 lap swim. At one stage, I swear that I am going backwards. There is no way that I am going to swim close to the ocean edge – somewhere in the middle feels relatively safe.

After our swim, we warm up with a coffee which is surprisingly good. We then head along the coast following the Coastal Walkway using the Randwick City Council map.  We are all still wearing rain jackets although the skies now look promising – cloudy but less likely to rain.

#23 Ivor Rowe Rock Pool

Our second pool today is the tiny, round Ivor Rowe rock pool. Whilst this is not the easiest to find, there are some obvious steps which lead off the walkway to a rock platform in South Coogee. The natural rock pool below could easily be overlooked as it is probably only 10m wide, but it does have some old wooden pillars marking its formation.

This is not a pool to swim as it is very shallow – more of one to wade in really. A sign near the steps announces that there have been 2 deaths in the area. It is meant to deter rock fishermen, but it also puts off a few of our swimmers who decide to stay safely above the rock platform. We observe the waves around the rockpool and decide it is safe. This is clearly one to avoid at high tide but we are now an hour after that and the waves that make it into the rockpool look more inviting than dangerous. The steps are however slippery but the wade (although some managed to swim it) is worth it. We agree that this one is the cutest pool so far.

#24 Rob Walker Rock Pool

Our third pool of the day is much harder to find. There is no mention of it on the Randwick City Council website and it is also not covered in the Ocean Pools NSW blog. Initially we walk all the way to Mahon Pool in North Maroubra before realising that we have missed it. We ask a local resident but they haven’t heard of it either.

We turn around and head back guided by Google Maps which has marked the Rob Walker rock pool on a track somewhere off Marine Parade. There appears to be an old ocean pool which has been filled in with concrete along the way and we wonder if the Rob Walker pool is permanently shut. However, we persevere along the rocks and find the most secret rock pool in Sydney.

The Rob Walker rock pool is again a natural rock pool, slightly larger than the Ivor Rowe rock pool, but with a spectacular infinity edge and a gentle waterfall effect from the waves. We all immediately like it. The surface is somewhat precarious with marine life and most of us opt to leave our sandals on for our swim/wade. Beside the rock pool there is a spectacular erosion of the sandstone cliffs – we like that too. We depart, very pleased to have found the pool and happy we didn’t miss such a treasure.

#25 Mahon Rock Pool

Heading back to Mahon Pool, we are relieved to see it looks considerably safer than when we first saw it over half an hour ago. The wind is quite fearsome as we round the Coastal Walkway to Maroubra and we are still grateful for those rain jackets. The Mahon Pool is spectacular, but it is not one we want to attempt two hours either side of high tide in a southerly – resembling the wash off the Manly jet cat. We decide however that we have timed it perfectly. Our minor mishap/detour has allowed us extra time to make sure Mahon Pool is safe to swim in.

Some of us elect to swim in our sandals as there is a sign advertising marine life in the pool but others find it safe in bare feet. It is not an easy swim (I again appear to be going backwards) and the wind in my face from the southerly presents an annoying spray so I decide that back- or side-stroke is the best way to tackle the elements. We all agree that the setting among the rocks is stunning.

After a leisurely walk along Maroubra Beach, with the sand between our toes and the wind in our hair, we find a ring of stones on the south end of the beach. This is possibly another unofficial rock pool but appears to us to be more of a wave barrier. We decide it doesn’t officially count as an ocean pool and walk on. The wind has given most of us a gentle skin exfoliation – far cheaper and probably far more effective than anything a salon could provide. We are relieved to walk off the beach and avoid more sand blasting though.

From Maroubra Beach we head into Malabar Headland National Park along a beautiful new coastal path which skirts the eastern headland around the fire range to Boora Point. The views here are splendid and we all greatly appreciate the new path and boardwalk which have made this area so accessible. For the first time today, we start to warm up and the rain jackets come off. Even when we round the corner and feel the brunt of the southerly, it now feels welcoming rather than cold. Whilst there is a slight fruity whiff at times, we are all smiling, admiring the scenery and hardly notice the Malabar sewerage works. The sun is shining but the cooler temperature means this 4km track is very accessible and easy to cover in the middle of a summer’s day.

#26 Malabar Rock Pool

We head into Malabar for our final pool of the day, Malabar Rock Pool, which is located just below Randwick Golf Club. It has spectacular views of Long Bay and is sheltered from the southerly making it the first calm pool of the day. The water is rippling and it looks wonderfully inviting. As we have finally warmed up, the temperature now feels a little colder but we all dive in and swim our two laps with ease.

There is a refreshing shower here but no changing facilities before we head back to our cars.

Next week, our final pools are at Cronulla.

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Leg 5 in a nutshell

Transport: park Randwick Golf Course, cnr Bay and Howe Rd, Malabar, and taxi or Uber to Coogee
Start of walk: Wylies Baths, Coogee
Finish: Malabar
Distance: 12km
No of pools: 5

Thank you, Fee for leading the group on this leg.

Map

, Adventures

Who walks 12km on the day that Sydney is the hottest place on the planet?  Fortunately for us, we had seven pools to swim on this section of our Summer Ocean Pool Challenge. We hopped over the harbour to follow on from last weekend’s walk Collaroy to Manly,  starting today at world famous Bondi beach.

#15 North Bondi rock pool

The cars were parked at Coogee and we got a 7am cab to North Bondi Pool.  Is this really a pool? The water barely came half way up our shins, and most of us didn’t even bother to take off our shorts as we waded across for our first lap of the day. The mosaic decorations were pretty though.  Sandals in hand, we strolled across the sands to the more famous Bondi pool.

#16 Icebergs

Ashamed to say, in our group of 15 Sydneysiders, some born and bred, none of us had ever swum at Icebergs!  We coughed up our $7 and headed down to the ice blue pool. At $3.50 each for our two up and down laps, we wondered if we should swim a few more to reduce the per lap cost.

Icebergs was bliss, compared to North Bondi pool, even if it does have it’s own website complete with webcams. But there were better pools to come, nearly all for free.

#17 Bronte Baths

The trend today was that the pools kept getting better and better, as the sun got hotter and hotter. Bronte Baths is like something out a theme park, except it’s real.  Dramatic cliff wall, a waterfall effect into the nearby Bronte Bogeyhole, and a cafe with coffee. What more does one need?  Fewer people perhaps?

Shoes back on, we walked through Waverley cemetery, as the coastal walkway is still being fixed after the winter storm damage.

#18 Clovelly Ocean Pool

How can you not love Clovelly Ocean Pool when the sun is high? There was a nice swell running through, and plenty of space for lazy swimmers to spread out, and for sun-bakers to roast.  We bent our rules and swam widths of this pool, instead of the long lengths.

On the south side of Clovelly ocean pool, there is an uninviting wading pool, which most of us decided didn’t qualify as a real ocean pool and wasn’t worth a dip.

#19 Giles Baths

We managed the heat today by leaving our towels in our backpacks, and simply putting our shorts on top of wet costumes. After Gordons Bay, we stopped briefly at the Bali Monument on Dolphins Point.  Passing through the old Giles Baths entrance portico, we descended the steps to this delightful natural (with a little help) pool.

It was worth getting the goggles out for fish watching in the clear water. Gaps in the rock pool Wall allows some ocean swell into the pool.  The surrounding rocks are fun for clambering on, and there i an uneven natural rocky bottom.  We didn’t want to get out.  This was peak pool bliss, with a gorgeous sense of intimacy after the crowds at Clovelly.

We clambered around the edge of the cliff face to the beach. With the tide rushing in and some slippery sections, this required a bit of care.  Even the crabs were scampering for shelter from the wash.

#20 Ross Jones Memorial Pool

Five pools down, two to go, and a lingering feeling that it was all downhill now, with Giles Baths behind us and the thermometer continuing its relentless climb.

Ross Jones Memorial Pool is a small, shallow pool at the southern end of Coogee beach.  We sat in the corner with our backs to the breaking waves enjoying the childish thrill of anticipation. Wave incoming! Shrieks from the kiddies in the adjacent paddling pool.

#21 McIvers Baths

Our final pool for the day was McIver Baths, a women and children only pool.  A very old pool, and the last women’s only rock pool in Australia.  Supposedly it costs 20c to enter, but rampant inflation had pushed this to $2 today.  There were women everywhere: sunning on the rocks, splashing in the water, lounging on the steep hillside, and playing around the chains surrounding the pool.

… perhaps its best to censor the pictures from McIvers – secret womens business!

As the last pool of the day, we enjoyed the showers, with their picture perfect window view to wedding cake rock, and the bookshelf of reading material.

Then it was back to our hot cars with seats burning the backs of our legs and steering wheels we could barely touch, for the trip home and an afternoon nap.

Next week: Coogee to Malabar

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Leg 4 in a nutshell

Transport: park Neptune Street, Coogee, and taxi or Uber to Bondi
Start of walk: North Bondi
Finish: Coogee
Distance: 12km
No of pools: 7

Thank you, Yvonne for leading the large group on this leg.

Map

, Adventures

We start the third leg of our Summer Ocean Pool Challenge in soft drizzle, a welcome relief from the hot summer days. While the rain is cool, the water in the pools is warm, and we are used to walking in wet swimming togs.  After only four pools last week from Bilgola to Narrabeen, today is a big day with seven pools to swim and 14km of bush and beach.

#8 Collaroy rock pool

Collaroy Rockpool is heaving with the high tide and waves crash through. It is a fun, rolling swim to start the day, and no one gets washed away beyond the chains.

With six more pools to swim ahead of us, once our lap is done we quickly put our shoes back on.  From Long Reef headland, we follow the bush path around the lagoon to Dee Why rock pool.

#9 Dee Why

There’s a great coffee shop as you approach Dee Why rock pool, and a collection of outdoor billboards displaying local student art. One of the artworks catches me eye – in the style of Diebenkorn’s Ocean Park series, it depicts Long Reef, the curve of the bay, and the rock pool in the foreground in shades of blue.

The Dee Why pool is as lovely as the artwork. We have a glorious swim, and laze around admiring the weathered rocks and birds, while chatting to a local regular morning swimmer.

#10 North Curl Curl and #11 South Curl Curl rock pool

Most of Sydney’s ocean pools are on the southern headland, for protection from the wind. Curl Curl is unique on the northern beaches in having two pools, one to the north and another in the south.

North Curl Curl Rockpool is accessed from the headland via stairs that descend the cliff face, or from the beach with some rock hopping. Besides it’s dramatic headland setting below the cliff, North Curl Curl pool also boasts a rock island.  We have a joyous, refreshing paddle in the empty pool.

Barefoot, we follow the arc of the beach sand, watching surfers bob in the water like seals as they wait for the perfect wave. South Curl Curl pool is more family friendly and busier than North Curl Curl, and has a ramp entry and shallow children’s section. We follow the painted lane lines (in a rock pool?) as we swim our lap, then track around the point to Freshwater.

#12 Freshwater

The masters squad swimmer descending the stairs to Freshwater pool in front of me has “Manly” emblazoned across his speedos, the first hint we get that this rock pool means serious swimming business. Freshwater pool is regular shaped, with numbered lanes and painted lines, and concrete steps for spectators to watch the action.  I half expect to see signs saying “slow”, “medium” or “fast”.  A bird is chilling on the rocks, warming up it’s wings, while kids are tipping each other off a surfboard in the pool.  The oldest rock pool on the northern beaches remains a popular spot.

From Freshies, it’s a quick hop over the headland to Queenscliff.

#13 Queenscliff

Queenscliff pool immediately disappoints.  It’s an uninviting, listless shade of green with ominous signs warning us not to fall in. Despite our better judgement, we dutifully swim a lap between the lane markers and leave as fast as we can.

#14 Fairy Bower Sea Pool

It’s midday now: the drizzle has given way to brilliant sunshine and the early morning high tide has long retreated.

The Fairy Bower sea pool is tiny compared to spacious Dee Why pool, and crowded with people. The bottom of the pool appears almost white, with clear fresh water. We swim a circuit past Helen Leete’s iconic Oceanides sculpture.

We buy a refreshing iced coffee from the kiosk at Manly SLSC, and walk to the bus stop. We’ve now swum all 14 rock pools on the northern beaches.

Next week we go south of the bridge to the eastern surburb beaches, starting with North Bondi pool and the famous Icebergs!

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Leg 3 in a nutshell

Transport: free parking at Brookvale commuter parking, then catch the B-Line bus to Collaroy, bus back from Manly at the finish
Start of walk: Collaroy
Finish: Manly
Distance: 14km
No of pools: 7

Thank you, Christine for leading the large group on this stretch.

Map