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The Routeburn Track

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Fiordland NP, Mt Aspiring NP, South Island New Zealand Walking Adventures

A group of seven of us ventured to New Zealand for what seems to have become an annual destination to complete one of their Great Walks. After walking the Heaphy Track last year, this time the Routeburn Track was selected. This track is generally a 2 night/3 day tramp and is located in the Fiordland and Mt Aspiring regions, not far from Queenstown. The Routeburn Track is possibly the next most popular walk in New Zealand (after the Milford Track) and it’s stunning scenery deserves such a reputation. It covers 36km of scenic alpine vistas, lush moss and lichen filled forests, spectacular and abundant waterfalls, lakes (in that wonderful azure glacial blue), gorges and mountain views.

Day 1 : The Divide to Lake MacKenzie Hut

Our transport picks us up at 7.15am from Te Anau and drops us off at The Divide just over an hour later. It is a grey drizzly morning so, after taking a few photos to commemorate the start of our walk, we head off wearing raincoats and pack covers. One of our group can’t find her pack cover so we rig up an alternative from a plastic poncho, using a variety of knots combined with delicate placement. I wonder how effective it will be and how long it will last. Although it is reasonably cool, layers start to come off quickly as it is nearly all uphill on Day 1.

From The Divide, there is a gradual climb for about an hour at a steady pace on a well-formed track. The beech forest drips with the light mist of rain and it is clear why everything is so lush and green. The forest is covered in ferns, many varieties of moss – literally dripping from the trees – and some interesting looking lichens. The mist offers a surreal glimpse into the landscape and we are not concerned about distant mountain views as we wonder at this wet green outlook that would feel quite at home on a movie set like the Lord of the Rings or perhaps within a fairy story. We start to pass the first of many streams and waterfalls and even have our first taste of the local water gushing from the rocks.

We pass the path to Key Summit Track and elect not to make this one hour side trip as we have been advised that it is not worth the climb when there is no view. Shortly after this we start to head down and arrive at the Lake Howden Hut for a break. This small hut overlooks a pretty lake and has the bonus of being under cover and with toilet facilities.

After morning tea, we head off past the lake and climb gradually through more ancient beech forests. There are more waterfalls to enjoy – in particular the spectacular Earland Falls which are 174m high. The mist from the falls is so profuse and we have to put on raincoats to simply walk past it. At one stage the Forest appears to end and we enter a clearing known as ‘The Orchard’. This is an open grassy area with shorter, different trees that do look a bit like fruit trees. We later learn that The Orchard was formed following a huge landslide many years ago and the trees are actually young trees which will eventually grow to the height of the other forest trees. Whilst we want to stop here for lunch, a drizzle has set in and we elect to move into the forest canopy for some protection from the wet for a quick lunch on the side of the track.

Towards the end of our first day, the surface of the track becomes rockier and the path seems to narrow. The rocks are at times slippery and one of our group has a scary fall off the side of the path and she descends down the mountain – backpack and all. She is fortunately stopped by vegetation and pulled up by the rest of us. The incident alerts and reminds us to watch our feet and keep safe. Although we are only walking about 14km today, it is a slower journey time than any of us expect due to the terrain.

As we descend to our accommodation at Lake Mackenzie, the track starts to get tough on aging knees so we are relieved to see buildings when they come into view. The first one however is the rather lavish building for the guided walkers which we have to walk past before reaching our own accommodation. We are cheered however that the Lake Mackenzie DOC hut has a much better view and location. This hut is slightly older than some we have used in New Zealand and has 50 bunks over two buildings – most of the beds are on a sleeping platform which takes a little getting used to especially when the person sleeping next to you is someone unfamiliar to you.

After setting up, most of us visit and swim in the stunning azure blue Lake Mackenzie (who needs a hot shower anyway?) which is dotted with rather spectacular rocks. The dip is highly refreshing and recommended despite the rather cold water temperature.

That evening the resident hut warden treats us to a chat that bears some resemblance to a comedy show peppered with lots of interesting information (or maybe it was the other way round). His talks are somewhat legendary in these parts and well worth catching (unlike the fish in the lake). We also learn about the stoat boxes which we have seen on the track and this ranger has been instrumental in introducing in order to return native birdlife to the area.

That night, there is quite a bit of faffing about in the backpacks. This becomes a key word in our group as people attempt to find things in their backpacks.

Day 2: Lake Mackenzie Hut to Routeburn Falls Hut

The rain has disappeared for our second day and we set off to hike over Harris Saddle to reach the highest point of the track. From Lake Mackenzie, we climb steadily, zigzagging as we traverse across the steep terrain.  Soon we are above the tree line and look back towards Lake Mackenzie – a seriously spectacular view. Having left the forest, we enter a world of rocks, grasses and alpine plants including edelweiss. Needless to say, some of us sing from the Sound of Music.

The path is tricky in places and we decide that we would much rather climb this terrain than descend it.

We pass the memorials to three trampers who have died on this track – the most recent death in 2016. There is also a pickaxe to remind us how the track was made – it is clear that no machinery has made this path.

We stop for a break at a great vantage point overlooking the Hollyford valley with views of the mountain range. At this time of the year, there is little snow on the peaks. It’s a beautiful walk from here as we spot sub-alpine plants and our first kea bird. The path traverses across the range and, whilst it feels exposed, the weather is kind to us. The combination of the slope, tussock grasses and narrow windy path with mountain views make this the most scenic day. When we reach the highest point on the track at Harris Saddle, we stop for lunch. Be prepared everyone else is having lunch here at the same time so it does seem a little crowded. There is another side track from here to climb Conical Hill which we decide not to walk.

After lunch we descend past Lake Harris. We walk through tussock grasses interspersed with streams, waterfalls and a wetland area. There are even giant rocks that have fallen from the mountain above and a rock shelter to walk through. The river bubbles beside us and meanders merrily to one side of the track. The path seems to have become considerably easier to walk – in sections there are even steps! As we reach our accommodation, the stunning Routeburn Valley comes into view.

Our hut for tonight is the Routeburn Falls Hut which is a newer hut with 48 bunks with greater privacy. The platform running at the front of this building overlooks the valley below with elevated views over the tree canopy. Not for the first time, we think the DOC hut has a better location compare to the guided walkers’ hut.

As the Falls are close by, we explore and find a path that leads to the water’s edge. All of us dip in the icy cold water but we seem to be in full view of the track above! Whilst the walkers are a long distance away, we imagine they are finding the sight of so many naked women below more interesting than the valley view or mountains above. Indeed one man remains there for the entire time we are bathing. We agree that we don’t need a hot shower as this outdoor experience is much more memorable.

Day 3: Routeburn Falls Hut to Routeburn Shelter

On our final day, we wake to the sound of rain. It’s not too hard but definitely worth wearing raincoats and pack covers. The makeshift poncho cover from our first day is however no match so there is rummaging around in bags to find extra gear.

As this part of the track is used by day walkers, our remaining walk is on a well-formed track. Finally it is wide enough for two of us to walk side-by-side. We are back in the beech forest almost immediately we leave the hut. We sidetrack to Routeburn Flats Hut for a short break from the rain. The view here of the valley with its grassy meadows and meandering river is lovely. We warm to this smaller hut which would be a great base to explore from.

Walking past the flats, we cross our first swing bridge and then shadow the crystal clear river as it roars through a magnificent gorge. The river plunges under and over rocks and there is an opportunity to walk down to its edge. If there weren’t so many other people here we might have gone for a swim! From here it is a gentle walk through the beech forest with a side trip through a nature reserve. We spot a few small native birds which skip on the forest floor next to us. They are hoping our feet will have disturbed insects for their next meal.

At the Routeburn Shelter we dry off, have lunch, make tea/miso soup and wait for our transport to take us back to Queenstown. There is much celebration as this has been the first multi-day hike for a number of our group. We hope to see everyone back for more another time.

Map

2018-03-29

Routeburn Track

  • Distance 37 km
  • Time 15 h 29 min
  • Speed 4 km/h
  • Min altitude 473 m
  • Peak 1296 m
  • Climb 1635 m
  • Descent 1583 m
  • Distance Instructions
Label

Logistics In A Nutshell

Accommodation:

Huts are pre-booked through the Department of Conservation. The Great Walk season is from end October to end April when huts are serviced and have cooking facilities. Outside of these dates, facilities are limited including the removal of many bridges. Huts are basic but comfortable and have stunning views. The Lake Mackenzie hut is due to close shortly and will be rebuilt for next season. Huts in 2017/18 season cost NZ$65 per night. We recommend booking early – we booked ours 10 months ahead as did many of the walkers on the same track.

Accommodation:

Huts are pre-booked through the Department of Conservation. The Great Walk season is from end October to end April when huts are serviced and have cooking facilities. Outside of these dates, facilities are limited including the removal of many bridges. Huts are basic but comfortable and have stunning views. The Lake Mackenzie hut is due to close shortly and will be rebuilt for next season. Huts in 2017/18 season cost NZ$65 per night. We recommend booking early – we booked ours 10 months ahead as did many of the walkers on the same track.

Buddy System:

The buddy system, of putting people together (in 2s or 3s) for shopping, cooking, sleeping, walking/looking out for one another, worked well especially cooking together. We would however advance on this to suggest buddies carry only one first aid kit (for example) to lighten loads further.

Duration:

We chose to walk the track in 3 days but it would be possible to shorten it by one day. We felt that 3 days/2 nights was optimal as the track in places is narrow, rocky and slippery so covering it at speed would be difficult.

Direction:

The walk can be covered in either direction although we start at The Divide and finish at the Routeburn Shelter (west to east). The views from either direction are similar but the walk is easier this way. As the guided walkers always walk west to east, the track guides for unguided walkers are printed to encourage you to walk east to west. We now realise why it is printed this way as there are, quite simply, an enormous number of guided walkers. This makes the track seem crowded in places. Their sheer number detracts from the remoteness of the location. We would therefore recommend unguided walkers travel east to west.

Weather:

You can expect wet weather is in this region as around two-thirds of the days historically experience rain. This is evident in the beautiful mossy and lichen forests and the plentiful water sources. We chose to walk at beginning of March when historical rain had been low. Unfortunately we were not blessed with blue skies although the track had been dry and clear for many weeks prior. The rain was not heavy but it was humid and damp. In hindsight, we would walk earlier in the season when the mountains had more snow (it is alpine after all). This would would have necessitated extra layers, gloves etc to be prepared for more inclement weather.

Transport:

We used Tracknet to transport us to and from Queenstown to the walk (including stopping in Te Anau for one night so that we were closer to the start of the walk). They partner with Info & Track to offer a loop which travels from Queenstown – Te Anau – The Divide and then Routeburn Shelter – Queenstown. The cost for the loop when we went was NZ$123.

Gear:

Expect to carry 10-11kg on this walk including water and food. As streams are plentiful, only 1L of water is generally required. The gear list published by DOC and on this website was our main guide. To this I add the following tips:

  1. Don’t forget your earplugs – snorers can be very noisy!
  2. A cloth handkerchief (rather than tissue packets) will last all trip and doesn’t need to be replaced or added to your rubbish.
  3. A cut up piece of an old yoga mat makes a good seat if it is rocky or wet (also very light and doesn’t cost anything).
  4. If you are using a water bladder make sure you also carry a water bottle in case it fails. Also think about a spare mouthpiece. 
  5. You can put a few rounds of duct tape around your water bottle which might be useful for fixing things on the track – saves having to carry too much extra weight. 
  6. If you have weak knees or other stressed body parts, think about carrying physio strapping tape and/or braces. Strapping tape can also be put around your water bottle. 
  7. A spare pair of shoelaces is a good idea to include.
  8. There are miniature bottles/containers for sale in most $2 shops (including Daiso) which are useful for decanting your face creams etc. You can use a small spray bottle with water to cool yourself down.
  9. A battery pack to charge your mobile phone is useful if you are using it to take photos etc. Best to make sure it is protected though. 
  10. You can buy “Goodbye Sandfly” in New Zealand which is a natural repellent and bite soother. It is considerably safer (and lighter) than Bushmans.
  11. Take a small tube of SuperGlue – you never know if old boots will fall to pieces!
  12. A short pair of gaiters is useful to prevent rain going down the top of your boots.
  13. A Buff is great for keeping wind, cold and sun out.
  14. A light-weight sarong is good for modesty dashes to the communal toilets at night.
  15. Clean your boots before you leave as they will need to be inspected at customs. Most people opt to wear them on the flight which saves on luggage space and makes them easier to access.
  16. Check your passport is in date! And don’t leave it behind on the photocopier….
  17. Pack a few small Ziploc bags to put food into when you buy it in NZ.

Wilsons Prom South East Circuit

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Wilsons Prom NP, VIC Australia Adventures

The three day South East Circuit at Wilsons Prom on the southern most point of mainland Australia is regarded as one of the best multi-day walks in Australia. We booked a long weekend trip, excited by the opportunity to sleep in a remote lighthouse as well as by the promise of secret beaches, granite rocks and forests.  

We arrived at Tidal River, the starting point for most walks, late on the day that Trump won the election for President of the United States. We were a group of eleven, including an American citizen. Determined that the polarising “orange man” was not going to spoil our retreat into glorious nature, we banned Trump as a topic of conversation.  There are places that politics and Twitter shouldn’t and can’t reach, and Wilsons Prom is one of those.

Instead, we celebrated the enduring power and glory of nature on nearby Squeaky Beach. All was peaceful here: the curves of the tea trees making an entry tunnel to the white sands of the beach, granite boulders tinged red, the sun setting beyond the islands studding the bay.

To the Lighthouse

With a long 23km ahead of us, we were up early on Friday.  Packs on, we walked out from the Tidal River camp ground in the direction of Norman Bay and Oberon Bay. After Oberon Bay, we turned inland, following a sandy path through tea tree and heath, away from the sea. We were hungry by the time we stopped for lunch at Halfway Hut.

With new energy after the lunch, break, we followed a fire trail and then single track through heathland in the heart of Wilsons Prom to Roaring Meg, a campsite in the forest. We spied two snakes in the afternoon, a green snake that quickly disappeared, and a tiger snake that was not inclined to move off the path for us.

We could see the lighthouse from afar. We dropped down to a saddle, before climbing a very steep hill up the granite outcrop that pushes into Bass Strait.  The National Parks lighthouse staff were waiting to welcome us at the top.  Once we’d unloaded our gear onto our bunks, they gave us a tour of the lighthouse, which was built in the 1850s. It was a stunning clear sky and almost windless day, and it felt like we could see all the way to Tasmania.

A family of wombats keep the grass trim. The wombats and shipping traffic provided entertainment as we relaxed in the garden in the late afternoon. After dinner in the well equipped kitchen in the historic lighthouse keepers cottage, we settled in to read the stories of the lighthouse families and the 1951 bush fire.

Refuge Cove

After saying farewell to the friendly lighthouse rangers, we set off under heavy skies to traverse the high slopes though forests around to Waterloo Bay. Eating our lunch on a granite boulder we could hear a thunderstorm out to sea.  We were rewarded for the climb to Kersops Peak by swirling mist and no views. However the weather cleared as we descended to Refuge Cove, our campsite for the second night.

Refuge Cove has a lovely white sweep of sand, and sheltered waters protected by the surrounding high hills and narrow entrance to the ocean. The campsite among trees was bordered by a tannin stained shallow tidal creek. It was an idyllic spot.  Once our tents were up, we walked to the beach to explore. A police boat with some (off duty?) policeman on deck was anchored close to shore.  I’m not sure what they made of the nymphs in our mob who stripped off for a wash in the chilly sea.

Sealers Cove

The tides weren’t in our favour for our final day, with high tide right about the time when we expected to cross Sealers Creek.  Crossing this sandy creek is easy at low tide, and not recommended at high tide.  So we set our alarms for very early, packed up by head torch, and were walking at dawn.  Sunrise over the still waters of Refuge Cove was the reward.

We climbed through forests from Refuge Cove, reaching Sealers Cove two hours before high tide.  Shoes, shorts and more came off. There were many laughs as we waded across the flowing creek, with water to our waists.  We had breakfast where the track from Telegraph Saddle joins the beach.

The long boardwalk through Sealers Swamp is an easy walk beneath palms and rainforest trees. We climbed to Windy Saddle in cool, soft drizzle.  The sun came out again for a fast descent to Telegraph Saddle: like horses heading home, I think these hikers could all smell the burgers we later devoured back to Tidal River!

We scrubbed up in the showers at Tidal River before starting the journey home. Great memories and the endorphin buzz that comes from exercise and time spent in Nature, the great healer, in the company of friends.

Map

2017-12-29

Wilsons Prom SE Circuit

  • Distance 58 km
  • Time 13 h 28 min
  • Speed 6 km/h
  • Min altitude 0 m
  • Peak 334 m
  • Climb 1608 m
  • Descent 1803 m
  • Distance Instructions
Label

Logistics

Accommodation: Thursday night at Tidal River (basic huts, or camp), Friday night at the Lighthouse, Saturday night in our own tents at Refuge Cove, Sunday back home.  As Wilson’s Prom is popular, early booking is necessary.

Transport: we flew from Sydney to Melbourne in the morning, hired a car and drove to Tidal River, arriving about 5pm on the Thursday.  We departed Tidal River early afternoon Sunday, to connect with our evening flights back to Sydney.

The team: Christine, Gai, Jane, Jo, Liz, Marna, Mary C, Mary S, Steph, Yvonne, and the Sole Man!

This walk is a full pack carry, with distance and elevation, as well as tidal river crossing and the possibility of extreme weather, so fitness and good humour are vital.

 

 

Summer Ocean Pool Challenge – Cronulla

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Sydney, NSW Australia Swimming, Walking Adventures

For the final leg of our summer ocean pool jaunt we meet at Wanda Beach SLSC. We have two ex-shire gals in the group who have decided a visit to Cronulla isn’t complete without walking the infamous Wanda Beach. It’s not yet 7am and the carpark is almost full. It seems we have timed our walk with a surf carnival.

It’s a beautiful sunny morning, light breeze, low tide, perfect conditions for 1km of beach walking to our first rock pool. We have a clear view to the north of Sydney’s longest continuous beach – 5km from Cronulla to Boat Harbour. There is something missing. Where are the huge sand hills of the 1960s – so imprinted in my childhood memory – a playground for kids with cardboard, a training ground for aspiring athletes, as well as the location for many a film shoot such as 40,000 Horsemen.

Sadly, continuous sand mining to meet the construction needs of a growing city along with nearby housing developments have had a huge impact on this once pristine environment. These gigantic dunes, so close to Kurnell, where Captain Cook first set foot on Australian soil, were thought to date back to Mesolithic times. Despite the historical and physical significance of the area, Sutherland Shire Council gave the go ahead in the 1930s to sand mining and backed up a decade later allowing an oil refinery nearby. Enough history.

#27 North and South Cronulla rock pools

We turn right and head south, dodging nippers, life-savers and surf skis, pass Eleoura and North Cronulla SLSCs and onto a pathway to reach our first rock pools. There are two pools side by side – imaginatively named “North” and “South” Cronulla Rock Pool.

“North” is the smaller one and with a low tide we could wade to the end and back – perfect for young ones and non-swimmers. “South” is a much larger and deeper pool where we could stretch out and swim a few laps with the locals. Access is very slippery and we were grateful for the ramps and railings.

#28 Nuns Pool

We continue on past South Cronulla SLSC and onto The Esplanade – a very popular walkway with an interesting mix of old and new houses ranging from the 1920s beach shack, red brick blocks of units to the modern mega mansions. We pass a building that was once a convent and spy a track leading down an embankment that takes us to a gorgeous natural rock pool, referred to by the locals as The Nuns’ Pool.

#29 Shelly Beach and #30 Oak Park rock pools

Next we come to Shelly Beach Pool and soon after Oak Park Pool  (Glaisher Point).

There are many similarities to these two gems. Both pools front a grassy park area complete with pine trees and palms, the perfect place for a picnic. And both have change rooms that are beautiful examples of Art Deco style pavilions, apparently built in the 1930s between the war years as part of the unemployment relief schemes which enabled new and less affluent suburbs to acquire previously unaffordable ocean pools.

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It is worth noting Shelly Beach has a wheelchair ramp from the path to the pool. These pools have a very friendly and relaxed vibe. Of course, Oak Park is also famous as the pool where Shark Wrangler Mel Hatheier casually returned a shark from pool to ocean. No sharks today.

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#31 Gunamatta Bay Baths

The walkway now continues on to Bass and Flinders Point overlooking the Port Hacking River – stunning views of ocean, river and The Royal NP where a recent bush fire is still smouldering. Soon we come to Darook Park, a lovely little beach on the shores of Gunamatta Bay. The incoming tide means we can’t continue along the shoreline as this is only possible at a low tide. We detour slightly onto Nicholson Pde to arrive a few minutes later at the Gunamatta Baths. Not an ocean rock pool but a significant pool none the less.

The Gunamatta Baths complex is so huge there is a 50m pool tucked into one corner. The vast netted area provided a safe enclosure where the council ran free learn to swim lessons during the 50s and 60s – a time when learning to swim was an essential, non-negotiable part of childhood.

The Cronulla Swimming Club, started in the 1920s is still going today and was in progress at the time of our visit. The climb down the steep ladder to the pontoon style starting blocks looked just as scary as back in my childhood days. I so wanted to ask for a lane and to swim just one length of this pool.

Instead we swam out to the net and I recalled a story from my learn to swim days – where an older sister told me (as I reached the net and was in need of a rest) the reason they are called shark nets is because the sharks are waiting for you so don’t touch the nets. And don’t touch the bottom or a sting ray will get you. Learning to swim in the 60s!

 

Next was a well-earned coffee and muffin at Primal Joes Café before the walk back along the beach to our cars at Wanda Beach.

Palm Beach to Cronulla, and beyond?

We have so enjoyed our Summer Ocean Pool Challenge from Palm Beach to Cronulla. Evocative of a bygone era where taking the train or tram to the seaside was a leisurely pursuit enjoyed by many. These simple rock pools, open to the elements, provided safe and affordable facilities for swimming and relaxing all year round.

Do we have to stop?

Leg 6 in a nutshell

Transport: park Wanda Beach SLSC
Start of walk: Wanda Beach
Finish: Wanda Beach
Distance: 8km
No of pools: 5

Thank you, Mary for leading the group on this leg to your childhood pools!

Map

2018-01-04

Summer Ocean Pool Challenge Cronulla

  • Distance 8 km
  • Time 2 h 7 min
  • Speed 4 km/h
  • Min altitude 0 m
  • Peak 23 m
  • Climb 144 m
  • Descent 142 m
  • Distance Instructions
Label

Summer Ocean Pool Challenge – Coogee to Malabar

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Sydney, NSW Australia Adventures

At 5am, in bucketing rain, I wonder how many of our walkers today will turn up to the fifth leg of the Summer Ocean Pool Challenge. By 6am, the rain seems to have eased and the forecast is for clear skies after 7am. It is however cold, but this is a welcome relief from the scorching temperatures of Bondi to Coogee last weekend. I pack a rain jacket and head out the door.

Everyone turns up on time at our parking near Randwick Golf Club, and we “Uber” to the start at South Coogee. I am grateful for the rain jacket – it is not just cold but seriously windy (a southerly no less) and I find that I need the extra layer for wind protection. Everyone else dons their rain jackets too.

#22 Wylies Baths

Our first pool today is Wylies Baths – fabulous historic baths in Coogee. The building is reminiscent of a bygone era with a magnificent view through the doorway to the distant ocean and a breathtaking platform over the pool below. We remind ourselves again that this is the Eastern Suburbs as we pay $5 entry fee to swim. We wander down the steps, greeted by the resident feline, the waves are crashing over the baths and it looks more than little bit interesting. We have timed our visit to coincide with high tide which is not deliberate but fortunately Wylies Baths has a lifeguard on duty – a precaution we feel is worth it given the rogue waves on display.

A local has already been for his swim and points out the best way into the baths to avoid the swell and rocks. Most of us (but not all) bravely venture forth into water that would look at home in a washing machine. Fortunately, it is pleasantly warm in the water (much warmer than the air temperature) although the swell makes it a rather laborious 2 lap swim. At one stage, I swear that I am going backwards. There is no way that I am going to swim close to the ocean edge – somewhere in the middle feels relatively safe.

After our swim, we warm up with a coffee which is surprisingly good. We then head along the coast following the Coastal Walkway using the Randwick City Council map.  We are all still wearing rain jackets although the skies now look promising – cloudy but less likely to rain.

#23 Ivor Rowe Rock Pool

Our second pool today is the tiny, round Ivor Rowe rock pool. Whilst this is not the easiest to find, there are some obvious steps which lead off the walkway to a rock platform in South Coogee. The natural rock pool below could easily be overlooked as it is probably only 10m wide, but it does have some old wooden pillars marking its formation.

This is not a pool to swim as it is very shallow – more of one to wade in really. A sign near the steps announces that there have been 2 deaths in the area. It is meant to deter rock fishermen, but it also puts off a few of our swimmers who decide to stay safely above the rock platform. We observe the waves around the rockpool and decide it is safe. This is clearly one to avoid at high tide but we are now an hour after that and the waves that make it into the rockpool look more inviting than dangerous. The steps are however slippery but the wade (although some managed to swim it) is worth it. We agree that this one is the cutest pool so far.

#24 Rob Walker Rock Pool

Our third pool of the day is much harder to find. There is no mention of it on the Randwick City Council website and it is also not covered in the Ocean Pools NSW blog. Initially we walk all the way to Mahon Pool in North Maroubra before realising that we have missed it. We ask a local resident but they haven’t heard of it either.

We turn around and head back guided by Google Maps which has marked the Rob Walker rock pool on a track somewhere off Marine Parade. There appears to be an old ocean pool which has been filled in with concrete along the way and we wonder if the Rob Walker pool is permanently shut. However, we persevere along the rocks and find the most secret rock pool in Sydney.

The Rob Walker rock pool is again a natural rock pool, slightly larger than the Ivor Rowe rock pool, but with a spectacular infinity edge and a gentle waterfall effect from the waves. We all immediately like it. The surface is somewhat precarious with marine life and most of us opt to leave our sandals on for our swim/wade. Beside the rock pool there is a spectacular erosion of the sandstone cliffs – we like that too. We depart, very pleased to have found the pool and happy we didn’t miss such a treasure.

#25 Mahon Rock Pool

Heading back to Mahon Pool, we are relieved to see it looks considerably safer than when we first saw it over half an hour ago. The wind is quite fearsome as we round the Coastal Walkway to Maroubra and we are still grateful for those rain jackets. The Mahon Pool is spectacular, but it is not one we want to attempt two hours either side of high tide in a southerly – resembling the wash off the Manly jet cat. We decide however that we have timed it perfectly. Our minor mishap/detour has allowed us extra time to make sure Mahon Pool is safe to swim in.

Some of us elect to swim in our sandals as there is a sign advertising marine life in the pool but others find it safe in bare feet. It is not an easy swim (I again appear to be going backwards) and the wind in my face from the southerly presents an annoying spray so I decide that back- or side-stroke is the best way to tackle the elements. We all agree that the setting among the rocks is stunning.

After a leisurely walk along Maroubra Beach, with the sand between our toes and the wind in our hair, we find a ring of stones on the south end of the beach. This is possibly another unofficial rock pool but appears to us to be more of a wave barrier. We decide it doesn’t officially count as an ocean pool and walk on. The wind has given most of us a gentle skin exfoliation – far cheaper and probably far more effective than anything a salon could provide. We are relieved to walk off the beach and avoid more sand blasting though.

From Maroubra Beach we head into Malabar Headland National Park along a beautiful new coastal path which skirts the eastern headland around the fire range to Boora Point. The views here are splendid and we all greatly appreciate the new path and boardwalk which have made this area so accessible. For the first time today, we start to warm up and the rain jackets come off. Even when we round the corner and feel the brunt of the southerly, it now feels welcoming rather than cold. Whilst there is a slight fruity whiff at times, we are all smiling, admiring the scenery and hardly notice the Malabar sewerage works. The sun is shining but the cooler temperature means this 4km track is very accessible and easy to cover in the middle of a summer’s day.

#26 Malabar Rock Pool

We head into Malabar for our final pool of the day, Malabar Rock Pool, which is located just below Randwick Golf Club. It has spectacular views of Long Bay and is sheltered from the southerly making it the first calm pool of the day. The water is rippling and it looks wonderfully inviting. As we have finally warmed up, the temperature now feels a little colder but we all dive in and swim our two laps with ease.

There is a refreshing shower here but no changing facilities before we head back to our cars.

Next week, our final pools are at Cronulla.

Leg 5 in a nutshell

Transport: park Randwick Golf Course, cnr Bay and Howe Rd, Malabar, and taxi or Uber to Coogee
Start of walk: Wylies Baths, Coogee
Finish: Malabar
Distance: 12km
No of pools: 5

Thank you, Fee for leading the group on this leg.

Map

2018-01-04

Summer Ocean Pool Challenge Coogee to Malabar

  • Distance 11 km
  • Time 0 s
  • Speed 3 km/h
  • Min altitude 0 m
  • Peak 0 m
  • Climb 174 m
  • Descent 167 m
  • Distance Instructions
Label

Summer Ocean Pool Challenge – Bondi to Coogee

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Sydney, NSW Australia Adventures

Who walks 12km on the day that Sydney is the hottest place on the planet?  Fortunately for us, we had seven pools to swim on this section of our Summer Ocean Pool Challenge. We hopped over the harbour to follow on from last weekend’s walk Collaroy to Manly,  starting today at world famous Bondi beach.

#15 North Bondi rock pool

The cars were parked at Coogee and we got a 7am cab to North Bondi Pool.  Is this really a pool? The water barely came half way up our shins, and most of us didn’t even bother to take off our shorts as we waded across for our first lap of the day. The mosaic decorations were pretty though.  Sandals in hand, we strolled across the sands to the more famous Bondi pool.

#16 Icebergs

Ashamed to say, in our group of 15 Sydneysiders, some born and bred, none of us had ever swum at Icebergs!  We coughed up our $7 and headed down to the ice blue pool. At $3.50 each for our two up and down laps, we wondered if we should swim a few more to reduce the per lap cost.

Icebergs was bliss, compared to North Bondi pool, even if it does have it’s own website complete with webcams. But there were better pools to come, nearly all for free.

#17 Bronte Baths

The trend today was that the pools kept getting better and better, as the sun got hotter and hotter. Bronte Baths is like something out a theme park, except it’s real.  Dramatic cliff wall, a waterfall effect into the nearby Bronte Bogeyhole, and a cafe with coffee. What more does one need?  Fewer people perhaps?

Shoes back on, we walked through Waverley cemetery, as the coastal walkway is still being fixed after the winter storm damage.

#18 Clovelly Ocean Pool

How can you not love Clovelly Ocean Pool when the sun is high? There was a nice swell running through, and plenty of space for lazy swimmers to spread out, and for sun-bakers to roast.  We bent our rules and swam widths of this pool, instead of the long lengths.

On the south side of Clovelly ocean pool, there is an uninviting wading pool, which most of us decided didn’t qualify as a real ocean pool and wasn’t worth a dip.

#19 Giles Baths

We managed the heat today by leaving our towels in our backpacks, and simply putting our shorts on top of wet costumes. After Gordons Bay, we stopped briefly at the Bali Monument on Dolphins Point.  Passing through the old Giles Baths entrance portico, we descended the steps to this delightful natural (with a little help) pool.

It was worth getting the goggles out for fish watching in the clear water. Gaps in the rock pool Wall allows some ocean swell into the pool.  The surrounding rocks are fun for clambering on, and there i an uneven natural rocky bottom.  We didn’t want to get out.  This was peak pool bliss, with a gorgeous sense of intimacy after the crowds at Clovelly.

We clambered around the edge of the cliff face to the beach. With the tide rushing in and some slippery sections, this required a bit of care.  Even the crabs were scampering for shelter from the wash.

#20 Ross Jones Memorial Pool

Five pools down, two to go, and a lingering feeling that it was all downhill now, with Giles Baths behind us and the thermometer continuing its relentless climb.

Ross Jones Memorial Pool is a small, shallow pool at the southern end of Coogee beach.  We sat in the corner with our backs to the breaking waves enjoying the childish thrill of anticipation. Wave incoming! Shrieks from the kiddies in the adjacent paddling pool.

#21 McIvers Baths

Our final pool for the day was McIver Baths, a women and children only pool.  A very old pool, and the last women’s only rock pool in Australia.  Supposedly it costs 20c to enter, but rampant inflation had pushed this to $2 today.  There were women everywhere: sunning on the rocks, splashing in the water, lounging on the steep hillside, and playing around the chains surrounding the pool.

… perhaps its best to censor the pictures from McIvers – secret womens business!

As the last pool of the day, we enjoyed the showers, with their picture perfect window view to wedding cake rock, and the bookshelf of reading material.

Then it was back to our hot cars with seats burning the backs of our legs and steering wheels we could barely touch, for the trip home and an afternoon nap.

Next week: Coogee to Malabar

Leg 4 in a nutshell

Transport: park Neptune Street, Coogee, and taxi or Uber to Bondi
Start of walk: North Bondi
Finish: Coogee
Distance: 12km
No of pools: 7

Thank you, Yvonne for leading the large group on this leg.

Map

2018-01-07

Summer Ocean Pool Challenge Bondi to Coogee

  • Distance 8 km
  • Time 1 h 52 min
  • Speed 4 km/h
  • Min altitude 2 m
  • Peak 45 m
  • Climb 201 m
  • Descent 179 m
  • Distance Instructions
Label

Summer Ocean Pool Challenge – Collaroy to Manly

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, Adventures

We start the third leg of our Summer Ocean Pool Challenge in soft drizzle, a welcome relief from the hot summer days. While the rain is cool, the water in the pools is warm, and we are used to walking in wet swimming togs.  After only four pools last week from Bilgola to Narrabeen, today is a big day with seven pools to swim and 14km of bush and beach.

#8 Collaroy rock pool

Collaroy Rockpool is heaving with the high tide and waves crash through. It is a fun, rolling swim to start the day, and no one gets washed away beyond the chains.

With six more pools to swim ahead of us, once our lap is done we quickly put our shoes back on.  From Long Reef headland, we follow the bush path around the lagoon to Dee Why rock pool.

#9 Dee Why

There’s a great coffee shop as you approach Dee Why rock pool, and a collection of outdoor billboards displaying local student art. One of the artworks catches me eye – in the style of Diebenkorn’s Ocean Park series, it depicts Long Reef, the curve of the bay, and the rock pool in the foreground in shades of blue.

The Dee Why pool is as lovely as the artwork. We have a glorious swim, and laze around admiring the weathered rocks and birds, while chatting to a local regular morning swimmer.

#10 North Curl Curl and #11 South Curl Curl rock pool

Most of Sydney’s ocean pools are on the southern headland, for protection from the wind. Curl Curl is unique on the northern beaches in having two pools, one to the north and another in the south.

North Curl Curl Rockpool is accessed from the headland via stairs that descend the cliff face, or from the beach with some rock hopping. Besides it’s dramatic headland setting below the cliff, North Curl Curl pool also boasts a rock island.  We have a joyous, refreshing paddle in the empty pool.

Barefoot, we follow the arc of the beach sand, watching surfers bob in the water like seals as they wait for the perfect wave. South Curl Curl pool is more family friendly and busier than North Curl Curl, and has a ramp entry and shallow children’s section. We follow the painted lane lines (in a rock pool?) as we swim our lap, then track around the point to Freshwater.

#12 Freshwater

The masters squad swimmer descending the stairs to Freshwater pool in front of me has “Manly” emblazoned across his speedos, the first hint we get that this rock pool means serious swimming business. Freshwater pool is regular shaped, with numbered lanes and painted lines, and concrete steps for spectators to watch the action.  I half expect to see signs saying “slow”, “medium” or “fast”.  A bird is chilling on the rocks, warming up it’s wings, while kids are tipping each other off a surfboard in the pool.  The oldest rock pool on the northern beaches remains a popular spot.

From Freshies, it’s a quick hop over the headland to Queenscliff.

#13 Queenscliff

Queenscliff pool immediately disappoints.  It’s an uninviting, listless shade of green with ominous signs warning us not to fall in. Despite our better judgement, we dutifully swim a lap between the lane markers and leave as fast as we can.

#14 Fairy Bower Sea Pool

It’s midday now: the drizzle has given way to brilliant sunshine and the early morning high tide has long retreated.

The Fairy Bower sea pool is tiny compared to spacious Dee Why pool, and crowded with people. The bottom of the pool appears almost white, with clear fresh water. We swim a circuit past Helen Leete’s iconic Oceanides sculpture.

We buy a refreshing iced coffee from the kiosk at Manly SLSC, and walk to the bus stop. We’ve now swum all 14 rock pools on the northern beaches.

Next week we go south of the bridge to the eastern surburb beaches, starting with North Bondi pool and the famous Icebergs!

Leg 3 in a nutshell

Transport: free parking at Brookvale commuter parking, then catch the B-Line bus to Collaroy, bus back from Manly at the finish
Start of walk: Collaroy
Finish: Manly
Distance: 14km
No of pools: 7

Thank you, Christine for leading the large group on this stretch.

Map

2017-12-29

Summer Ocean Pool Challenge Dee Why to Manly

  • Distance 15 km
  • Time 0 s
  • Speed 3 km/h
  • Min altitude 0 m
  • Peak 0 m
  • Climb 355 m
  • Descent 359 m
  • Distance Instructions
Label

Summer Ocean Pool Challenge – Bilgola to Narrabeen

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, NSW Australia Swimming, Walking Adventures

A week after swimming the rock pools from Palm Beach to Avalon, we were back for the second leg of our Summer Ocean Pool Challenge, waiting for the bus at Berry’s Reserve, Narrabeen on another bright, sunshiney day.  We stepped off the bus at the Bilgola bus stop, and hiked down to the beach along the bush track.

#4 Bilgola Rock Pool

Bilgola Rockpool was silky warm and calm, and we swam some lazy 50m laps.  It’s not surprising to hear that Bilgola is one of the most popular pools on the northern beaches with the early morning squad.

A quick dry off, before following the bush track around the South Bilgola Headland towards Newport.

#5 Newport Rock Pool

After a gentle start to the day, the high tide and swell rolling through Newport Rockpool was something unexpected and different!  We had to time our entry into the pool as the swell washed across the path. The less confident swimmers wisely sat themselves down on the rocks at the base of the cliff to watch the rest of us enjoy a cautious lap in the washing machine.

From Newport, we walked along Myola Rd with a detour around Bungan Head to admire the castle. We bypassed Bungan beach as it has no rock pool, and headed for Mona Vale headland with lovely views north and south.

#6 Mona Vale Rock Pool

We descended the bush path and were soon enjoying Mona Vale Pool, arriving just in time to beat the hordes of enthusiastic nippers. The fancy houses on the headlands might have good swimming pools, but they can’t compete with the ultimate ocean infinity pool at Mona Vale.

As the nipper mob arrived, we left in search of coffee. The queues at Mona Vale were long, so we climbed up the Warriewood headland to get our caffeine fix at Sunrise Cafe.

#7 North Narrabeen Rock Pool

From Warriewood, we took the bush track around Turimetta Headland, where some hang-gliders were enjoying the thermals. On to Narrabeen Headland, where we descended the wooden stairs to North Narrabeen Rockpool.  Narrabeen is a big pool, with a boardwalk running through it, but the highlight for our swimmers was watching a pod of dolphins surfing just beyond the pool.

From Narrabeen, it was back through the suburb to Berry Reserve to our cars. A longer walk this week, but once again we all had a great day, and some of us followed it up with a nice afternoon nap.

Can’t wait to walk and swim Collaroy to Manly!

Leg 2 in a nutshell

Transport: 6:55am bus from Berry Reserve, Narrabeen to Bilgola
Start of walk: Bilgola
Finish: Narrabeen
Distance: 11.5 km
No of pools: 4

Thank you, Liz, for leading the group from Bilgola to Narrabeen.

Map

2017-12-29

Summer Ocean Pool Challenge Bilgola to Narrabeen

  • Distance 12 km
  • Time 3 h 5 min
  • Speed 4 km/h
  • Min altitude 0 m
  • Peak 70 m
  • Climb 346 m
  • Descent 374 m
  • Distance Instructions
Label

Summer Ocean Pool Challenge – Palm Beach to Avalon

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, NSW Australia Swimming, Walking Adventures

Sunday, 10 December 2017, dawned with blue sky and plenty of promise. The conditions were perfect for launching our Summer Ocean Pool Challenge.

#1 Palm Beach Rockpool

The bus dropped us off at Palm Beach. We set forth on a warm-up walk next to the golf course towards the lighthouse, and then back along the beach and Ocean Rd to our first rock pool, Palm Beach Rockpool. Despite the pool being in shade, the water temperature was ideal: cool to start, but soon very pleasant. A nice big pool for lap swimmers.

Not all of us were familiar with the route, so the (600-odd!) stairs leading up from Palm Beach to the top of the headland came as a shock to some (i.e. me!). It was a great way to get the heart pumping!

Starting the Ocean Pool Challenge at Palm Beach

#2 Whale Beach Rockpool

From there we walked along Whale Beach Rd to … Whale Beach and Dolphin Bay, where the tide was sufficiently low to make for a comfortable stroll on the sand, even for Mary S on her first walk back since fracturing a fibula. Whale Beach rock pool has several easy entry points and was shallow throughout. Again the water was just right for a dip.

Whale Beach view to rock pool
Whale Beach Pool

We rejoined Whale Beach Road via Malo Reserve and Malo Rd. The tree cover above the sidewalk provided welcome shade as the day was warming up. A bushland path through Careel Headland Reserve, took us off-road and up another set of steps (yay!) to Bangalley Head for an opportunity to savour breathtaking, cliff-top views northward, southward and out to sea.

A couple of walkers took an alternative route from the headland. At the meeting point of the two paths, there were a remarkable number of grass trees, almost all of them with flower spikes.

Shortly afterwards the bush gave way to the grassy area of Bangalley Park. Here we faced a dilemma: whether to ‘swim’ in a pop-up pool set up for a pool party or to give it a miss. There were no takers – it wasn’t an ocean pool, after all!

Bangalley Headland view
Bangalley Headland Pool Party

#3 Avalon Beach Rockpool

Nippers were in full swing when we reached Avalon Beach via the Tasman Rd car park at the northern end. At the southern end, some of the kiddies were paddling around the Avalon rock pool on soft boards under close instructor supervision. They left us enough room for two, narrow, virtual lanes, in the smallest and deepest pool of the day. By now it was a joy to feel the coolness of the water wash away perspiration and relax walking muscles. Some larger waves were crashing on the rocks giving rise to aerial spray, a true ocean pool experience.

Avalon Pool with nippers
Avalon Pool with nippers

We topped things off with a yummy Campos coffee at Nourished, a café on Avalon Parade, conveniently close to available early-morning parking, the rock pool, change rooms at Avalon SLSC and the bus stop.

For non-swimmers out there, the challenge is to get wet, not about swimming prowess. Come join us: most of the pools are shallow enough for wading and if not, you can stay on the steps. Each ocean pool has its own character, which is half the fun of this challenge.

Everyone had a lovely time. Bring on the next leg from Bilgola to Narrabeen!

Leg 1 in a nutshell

Transport: Bus from Barrenjoey Rd at Avalon Parade to Palm Beach Golf Club
Start of walk: Palm Beach
Finish: Avalon Rock Pool
Distance: 8.5 km
No of pools: 3

Participants: 9 (including 2 partners)
Footwear: 7 wearing socks/walking shoes; 2 wearing walking sandals

To change or not to change between pools: most of us walked in our wet bathing suits, without suffering chafe or other dire consequences

Thank you, Fee and Yvonne, for doing all the necessary research and planning, and thank you, Julie, for leading the group from Palm Beach to Avalon.

Map

2017-12-29

Summer Ocean Pool Challenge Palm Beach to Avalon

  • Distance 9 km
  • Time 2 h 10 min
  • Speed 4 km/h
  • Min altitude 2 m
  • Peak 106 m
  • Climb 315 m
  • Descent 309 m
  • Distance Instructions
Label

Summer Ocean Pool Challenge

Sydney, NSW Australia Swimming, Walking Adventures

Our summer challenge: to walk the Sydney ocean coastline from Palm Beach south to Cronulla over a series of weekends in December and January, swimming one lap in each of Sydney’s great ocean pools.

The Pools

The pools come in all shapes all sizes – some with flat bottoms, others with rocks, sand or seaweed, sea-life and waves to entertain you.

Our route hugs the ocean coastline, not the harbour.  We will walk in one direction, and either catch the bus, car shuffle or uber.  We will aim to walk in the morning, but occasionally may need to vary the time to suit the tide and swells.  Follow the pool links to check on facilities.

Date

Walk

Swim

Low tide
Sun 10 Dec Barrenjoey to Avalon (approx 7km)

Park at Avalon and catch the bus north. Our first swim of the challenge is at the southern end of Palm Beach, and the lovely Bangelly Headland bush track. Showers at Avalon SLSC, and coffee to finish.

 3 pools

Palm Beach Rockpool, Whale Beach Rockpool and  Avalon Rockpool

 8:51am
Sun 17 Dec Bilgola to Narrabeen (approx 13km)

Bus north again, from North Narrabeen to Bilgola. Today we swim in Liz’s home pool, Bilgola – some claim this is the best ocean pool in NSW?

 4 pools

Bilgola Rockpool, Newport Rockpool, Mona Vale Pool, North Narrabeen Rockpool

 3:07pm
Sat 30 Dec Collaroy to Manly (approx 14km)

Park at the new Brookvale B-Line commuter parking and bus to start. Some nice beach walking between pools today, and a rockpool with an island in it. We might try the tunnel between Freshwater and Queenscliff pools.

 7 pools

Collaroy Rockpool, Dee Why, North Curl Curl Rockpool, South Curl Curl pool, , Queenscliff, Fairy Bower rock pool

 12:57pm
Sun 7 Jan North Bondi to South Coogee (approx 12km)

We start with a paddle in the North Bondi pools, and end with a women only rock pool. You can tell you are in the East now, no free swims – Icebergs costs $6.50

 7 pools

North Bondi Pools, Icebergs, Bronte Baths, Clovelly Ocean Pool, Giles Baths, Ross Jones Memorial Pool, McIver Baths

 6:09am
Sun 14 Jan South Coogee to Malabar (approx 12km)

A taxi or Uber from Malabar to start at Coogee might be the simplest option. Wylies ($5) is Steph’s local, and the oldest surviving communal baths in Australia. After our a swim at Wylies, we walk south along the rock shelves for some quite different pools, including Ivor Rowe Rockpool a small round pool.

 5 pools

Wylies Baths, Ivor Rowe Rockpool, Rob Walker Rockpool, Mahon Pool, Malabar Rock Pool

 2:11pm
Sun 21 Jan Cronulla (approx 8km)

Pools around Cronulla – led by Mary who will explain how she learnt to swim so fast in these pools/

 5 pools

North Cronulla Rockpool, natural Nuns Pool, Shelly Beach pool, Oak park rockpool, Gunnamatta Baths

 6:19pm

Fit, happy partners and family are welcome – so long as they abide by the rules of the challenge and take a dip in every pool! No wusses.

Route Map

Pools

 

The Heaphy Track

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Kahurangi National Park, West Coast New Zealand Walking Adventures

After our successful walk in 2016 on the Kepler Track, in 2017 we selected the Heaphy Track, once again expertly organised by Mary.  The Heaphy Track is an easy, scenic 80km walk located in Kahurangi National Park in the north west corner of South Island. The final day is a stunning 17 km walk on the wild South Island west coast. 

The route of the Heaphy Track

The well-maintained track follows a trail originally used by the Golden Bay Maori in their quest for the pounamu (greenstone). The track is named after Charles Heaphy, one of the first Europeans to traverse the coastal part of the route. The Heaphy has a variety of landscapes: we walked through forested mountains and tussock downs, alongside pristine rivers with white rock beaches, through ancient forests of nikau palms and giant rata trees, and the wild and beautiful west coast.  The walk along the Heaphy River was a delight – Harrison Ford could have appeared at any time though the vines and palms growing among the weird, mossy limestone formations.

Day One: Brown Hut to Perry Saddle Hut

We spend a day in Nelson to shop for food and organise our packs.  We had an early start for the 3 hour bus trip with Trek Express who dropped us at the sand-fly invested Brown Hut. We collected and dusted off our previously clean packs from the bus trailer, and covered ourselves in various sand fly protections. Then we set off on Day One of the walk.

We climb gently and steadily from about 150m up to 900m over 17km. There were intermittent views across the valley through the beech trees and from the highest point at Flanagan’s Corner. Close to the hut we saw our first weka, and were fascinated by this seemingly unafraid ‘chook like’ flightless bird. At this point in time, we had no idea of their capability to steal and just how many more we would see!

Perry Saddle Hut is a new and well equipped hut with gas, solar lighting, 28 bunks, fresh water and toilet facilities. As with all the huts we stayed in, pre-booking is required.  After selecting our bunks and having a cuppa, the brave girls visited the ‘Day Spa’ down the hill from the hut. The water was coolish, but there was a good size water hole and it felt very good to refresh after the day’s walk.

We gathered around the kitchen tables to start our pink beanie knitting challenge as part of the PussyHat Global Virtual March celebrating International Women’s Day on March 8th  and subtlety referencing a comment made by President Donald Trump.  With a range of knitting abilities and a variety of wool, it was clear that no two hats were going to look the same!  

The hut warden put the weather forecast the notice board for the next day with a definite forecast of rain!

After cooking our first “gourmet” meal from our dried food supplies, we retired to bed and yes, there was the odd bit of snoring heard from other hut inhabitants through the night! They were dutifully noted to be avoided if we ended up in the same hut another night!  

2018-01-04

Heaphy Track Day 1

  • Distance 20 km
  • Time 0 s
  • Speed 4 km/h
  • Min altitude 0 m
  • Peak 0 m
  • Climb 1057 m
  • Descent 289 m
  • Distance Instructions
Label

Day Two: Perry Saddle Hut to James Mackay Hut

It was not raining when we woke up, however we were expecting rain to start at any time. Forecasts said that we could expect up to 50mm so the wet weather gear was put on the top of the packs and pack covers put on. With two huts (Gouland Downs and Saxon) along the way, we set our break stops accordingly. Thankfully the forecasters had it wrong – the front had decided to continue its thorough saturation of Sydney!

Heaphy Track Boot Pole Corner
Heaphy Track enchanted Forest
Heaphy Track creek
Heaphy Track Beech Forest

We hiked across the red tussocks of the Gouland Downs crossing numerous creeks. The Enchanted Forest was something out of Lord of the Rings with its moss and lichen covered formations growing over limestone arches. Along the way, we found a couple of shells of the giant nocturnal carnivorous snail, Powelliphanta. We then continued along a ridge to Mackay Downs. We had the company of a helicopter for the afternoon presumably doing track maintenance in the area.

The James Mackay hut was once again very well equipped, including flushing toilets. The ‘Day Spa’ was not as luxurious as the previous night, however there was enough water to freshen up. From the hut, we had views down to the Tasman Sea and a pink sunseat over the Heaphy River mouth, where we would be walking the next day under a clear sky! Yippee!

Heaphy Track view from James Mackay Hut
Heaphy Track view from James Mackay Hut

 

At dinner, we met the delightful Katharine of 2 Minute Needles, who shared her knitting expertise with us.  We had a serious case of food envy that night, as we ate our dehydrated morsels while Katharine and friends tucked into a gourmet meal of risotto with wine and more.

2018-01-04

Heaphy Track Day 2

  • Distance 27 km
  • Time 0 s
  • Speed 4 km/h
  • Min altitude 0 m
  • Peak 0 m
  • Climb 668 m
  • Descent 791 m
  • Distance Instructions
Label

Day Three: James Mackay to Heaphy Hut

Our packs were starting to feel just a little lighter by now thankfully! There were a few blisters amongst us and some impressive sand-fly bites, but we were all happy and enthusiastic to continue along our way. The morning sky was clear and the air cool, perfect weather for our lucky group of eleven walkers.

We began the slow descent, with views through the forest of the river valley, until we arrived at Lewis Hut. Once again abundant in sand flies and cheeky wekas, we found the best place to avoid them for our morning tea was on the rocks in the river where there was a slight breeze.

From here, we crossed the first of many suspension bridges and hugged the famous giant Northern Rata Tree with a girth of 12m. The walk was stunning alongside the river through the forest of Kahikatea, Rimu and Rata trees. This area can be affected by flooding after heavy rain and become impassable.

With plenty of time to spare, a few of us stopped on a small beach and had a swim, and then stopped again later to have lunch on the side of the river. We were ‘weka’d’ with Jane losing an apple and her hair comb!

Heaphy Hut view
Heaphy Track Suspension Bridge
Heaphy Tack Driftwood

After arriving at the resort-like Heaphy Hut with its ravenous sand flies and mob of weka, we had a swim in the lagoon upstream from the river mouth. Subject to some pretty ferocious weather, most of the beach at the river mouth was completely and impassably covered in dry timber that had either been washed in from the sea or come down the river during storms. 

This area is also the site of an interesting Polynesian archaeological site dating back to the 13th – 14th century.

We were warned by the ranger to be very careful on the beaches as recently someone had recently lost their life caught by a rogue wave whilst walking along the beach.

The pink knitted hats were coming along nicely. We had a stunning sunset, followed by clear starry night skies. This was our last night of dried dinners and we were all looking forward to some fresh food and a beer or wine in Nelson!

2018-01-04

Heaphy Track Day 3

  • Distance 21 km
  • Time 0 s
  • Speed 3 km/h
  • Min altitude 0 m
  • Peak 0 m
  • Climb 223 m
  • Descent 901 m
  • Distance Instructions
Label

Day Four: Heaphy Hut to Kohaihai River 

Our last day and with a deadline of 1.30 pm to catch the bus, we were all up early to walk along the coast. Once again, we had the most perfect day, however the extent of what nature could dish up was not lost on us as we saw landslides, remedial track work, wind blasted vegetation and creeks that would be impassable with a good fall of rain. We had checked the tide times so knew we would be OK for the crossing at Crayfish Point.

Heaphy Track West Coast Rivers
Heaphy Track Palm Forest
Heaphy Track Nice Bridge
Heaphy Track – the end is in sight

We all arrived for the climb over the unmistakable conical Kohaihai bluff to the river and track end with time to spare, along with other walkers that we had met along the way.  We were all sad that it was our last day. I could have just kept on walking!   By 2pm, we were in the bus for the long 5+ hour journey back to Nelson.  

2018-01-04

Heaphy Track Day 4

  • Distance 15 km
  • Time 0 s
  • Speed 3 km/h
  • Min altitude 0 m
  • Peak 0 m
  • Climb 611 m
  • Descent 599 m
  • Distance Instructions
Label

Logistics of the Heaphy Track

The track  can be walked in in four to six days in either direction but it is nice to have the most scenic part of the walk on the last days of the walk. We chose to walk four days walking with three nights in huts (Perry’s Saddle, James Mackay and Heaphy Huts). Others we met along the way were adding an extra night to the trip breaking the long 25km second day into two shorter days. There were additional huts along the route so this allowed for some flexibility in itineraries. The huts are cheap, clean and well equipped. The track can also be mountain biked at certain times of the year. It was easy walking with a mix of rocky sections contrasting the soft forest floor and gentle gradients. No guide is needed – the track is well marked with good information provided in the huts.

We  reviewed what we would do differently next time, particularly for sharing food and making meals more appetising.  Some of us tried the Nelson based Absolute Wilderness products which were very tasty.

Heaphy Track Snails
Heaphy Track Weka
Knitting Pink Beanies

The knitting of pink beanies on the track was a great success!  Perfect relaxation at the end of each day over a cuppa.  We were lucky to meet Katharine, of 2MinuteNeedles  (also on facebook as 2MinuteNeedles) who inspired us by showing us her multi-coloured socks (knitted on a vintage sock knitting machine) and her fingerless mittens. Katharine stocks lovely kits for making mittens – so that will be our next hiking craft project.

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